More tips on caring for redbud trees that need TLC
DIGGING IN
Q. I read about your redbud tree care earlier and am hoping you’ll have suggestions for ours. We planted one last year, in May, but it didn’t do very well last summer. We thought it was due to being newly planted, heat and wind. The leaves were wilted most of the time. It was watered regularly and fertilized. This year it came back, bloomed and looked OK. But the wilting is continuing, too many leaves dry up and fall off, and it’s not growing. I did apply a fungus spray but it does not look any better. Any suggestions? — E.S., Albuquerque
A. The photos forwarded to me do show a young tree in need of some sort of assistance. I suggest that you collect samples of the leaves that look the most horrid in a sealed plastic bag and take them to a true nursery that has on staff an individual that will look at the leaves. Once you collect the sample leaves, get them to the nursery ASAP because the “fresher” they stay, the better the diagnosis can be. Don’t drive around with them all day so they cook in the bag. Most importantly is keeping them in a zip lock bag. Certainly the nursery won’t want you to bring in anything that could be spread to their plant life. Be respectful, please.
Now I do see damage from a pest — I’m thinking a psyllid — making the wee bumps you’re noticing. You could try and do surgery on one of the bumps, separating the leaf cautiously with a razor blade or scalpel to see if there is a small bug in the bump. Psyllids start as overwintering eggs and then just at leaf bud, hatch and literally work their way between the layers, eating the leaf internally and continuing their stages of life.
Also, I see perfect half-moon cuts taken off the leaf margins. They are made by a helpful bug called a leaf cutter bee and those I wouldn’t worry about. The leaf cutter is a valued member of the pollinating group. The tattering of the leaves could very well be caused by wind, so unless you’re able to move the redbud to a more sheltered spot, it could be a constant.
You say you’ve fertilized, but I’ll ask that you stop that for the time being and apply root stimulator instead. Apply monthly, diluted to manufacturing recipe, from now until November. Remember to water the tree first, then offer the stimulator. Since the fungal spray didn’t offer any visual results I wouldn’t do it again, especially in this heat. That could maim the tree more than help. Try a horticultural oil (dormant oil) spraying beginning in October applied at least twice, perhaps three times during the winter (dormant season), to effectively suffocate any pests that are overwintering on the tree.
I see that you have the tree staked to help support it. I need you to get out there and remove the ties that are assisting the tree and re-tie it, further up or down the trunk, so the trunk doesn’t get scarred or indented too much. Kept too tight, for too long, the trunk can/will be hurt. Also, don’t use string or twine. I like the “give-ability” of pantyhose legs or long socks. They support without cutting into the tree bark. It’s most important you check and relocate the support ties on the tree NOW!
When you’re watering please be sure you’re offering a slow drink of water. I’d suggest sitting the hose down within the tree ring and allowing it to seep for 15 minutes on one side of the trunk and then 15 minutes on the opposite side of the trunk within the ring. That and the root stimulator applications should make a big difference in the redbud’s health.
This autumn, rake up and dispose of any dropped leaves and seed pods, remember to water every 10 days to two weeks weather dependent, apply the oil spraying and see if the redbud doesn’t rebound and take off next year!
Hope this helps and Happy Diggin’ In!