NO STOPPING SOME
Though urged not to come, hundreds still made the pilgrimage to Chimayó
Despite the Archdiocese of Santa Fe closing el Santuario de Chimayó in the days leading up to Easter, and pleas by state officials and New Mexico State Police for people not to participate in the annual pilgrimage to the sacred site due to the coronavirus pandemic, hundreds still made the trek on Good Friday.
“They didn’t cancel the crucifixion,” reasoned Eli Castellano of Albuquerque.
Castellano and a group of friends from their Duke City church were standing in line to give confession to Father Sebastián Lee, who nonetheless was receiving people in a space behind the locked-up sanctuary. Roads into the property were also blocked off, but a few dozen people still roamed the grounds Friday morning.
Some approached the doors of the sanctuary and said a prayer before moving on. Others paid respects by lighting a candle at an outdoor shrine. Each had their own reasons for being there.
“I feel the need for peace in this crazy world, and I feel like I’m finding it today,” Castellano said.
Diego and Anastasia Lucero, also of Albuquerque, make the pilgrimage part way because it’s a tradition they don’t ever want to see end. That’s why they brought along their four children.
“I’ve been doing this all my life,” Diego said. “We listened to the governor last year, but this is tradition.”
“And because we want our kids to carry on the tradition, and our grandkids,” Anastasia added.
For decades, large numbers of people each year have made the walk from their home, or park their vehicle far enough away to make the pilgrimage worthwhile, and walk to the sanctuary, where legend has it that the dirt dug from a small room inside has the ability to heal.
A popular parking spot is Buffalo Thunder Resort and Casino in Pojoaque, about 20 miles away.
“It’s supposed to be a sacrifice,” Anastasia said of the journey to Chimayó. “We say prayers and count our blessings along the way.”
Most years, tens of thousands of people visit Chimayó during Holy Week, with Good Friday being the peak day.
This year, numbers were reduced to hundreds over the course of the day. Still, that was perhaps 10 times more than last year, when nearly everything was shut down after the COVID-19 pandemic first hit.
A year later, the crisis seems to be subsiding, though the reduction in COVID cases has generally plateaued in recent weeks. But, while most businesses and restaurants have reopened with at least partial capacity, limits on large gatherings are still in place and the archdiocese decided to cancel the holy pilgrimages to Chimayó and Tomé Hill in Valencia County for the second straight year.
“It’s amazing how few people are out here. I thought there’d be more,” said James Baumbach of Nambé. “I don’t want to break any rules, but the governor did say to get outside and walk, get fresh air and keep your health up.”
The governor has encouraged people to get outside for exercise and the weather on Friday couldn’t have been better for early April, with high temperatures in the 70s.
Kim Feller and Lori Meyer, both of Los Alamos, took advantage of the beautiful day, too.
“It’s still a great opportunity to get out and enjoy the day. And, afterwards, we’ll have a great meal at the restaurant,” Feller said, referencing the popular Rancho de Chimayó restaurant.
Neither are Catholic, but say they are “spiritual.” Meyer said she and her friend were enjoying the solitude walking down N.M. 503. They shut their phones off and, except for a few words passing between them, remained mostly reflective.
“This sets the tone for me for the entire year,” Meyer said.
John Lopez was walking down 503 alone. He’s been making the trek since 1993.
“It started off as a thanks to God after an AIDS test came back negative. I made a promise and I’m paying it back,” he said.
Lopez said he started his walk about five miles from the sanctuary. His wife would pick him up later.
Not everyone came with a purpose.
A young woman who gave only her first name, Naghmeh, was with her boyfriend, Kyle.
“We’re here by happenstance,” she said.
The two are from the San Francisco Bay Area, but Naghmeh’s father moved to New Mexico a few years ago.
“We were planning a trip to the Rio Grande and saw this town that looked interesting,” she said when asked what brought them to the sacred shrine.
She and Kyle walked the grounds with interest. And though they’re not Catholic, “It’s nice to pay our respects,” Naghmeh said.
But most people came to el Santuario de Chimayó on Friday for a reason, and they weren’t going to let the recommendation of state officials and their own church stop them for a second year in a row.
“My faith is the most important thing to me above everything else,” Castellano said.