Albuquerque Journal

On the side

- — Richard S. Dargan/For the Journal

ST. JAMES TEAROOM

★★★★

320 Osuna NE, Building D, 242-3752, stjamestea­room.com

For many locals, a visit to St. James Tearoom is a treasured tradition.

St. James Tearoom changes the menu frequently to suit the seasons and roll out events such as a Harry Potterthem­ed service so that there’s always a reason to come back. To say they have a following is an understate­ment: If you wait until November to book a table for the holidays, you’ll be out of luck.

The four tea options — regular, gluten-free, vegetarian and nut-free — include three courses of food and three teas with all the accouterme­nts.

The outgoing menu, organized into two acts with an intermissi­on, is based on “The Nutcracker,” Peter Ilich Tchaikovsk­y’s 1892 ballet.

I ordered one regular tea ($45.52) and one gluten-free ($50.49) version.

The highlight of the savory treats that made up Act 1 was Godfather Drosselmey­er’s Beef Wellington. St. James has perfected the art of beef Wellington.

Savory offerings at St. James include beef Wellington, creamed Brussels sprouts and mushrooms, truffled potato, cheddar quiche and a cucumber tea sandwich with roasted turkey, and orange and cranberry cream cheese.

The savories were backstoppe­d by a strong, rich Indian Assam black tea in which the leaves were formed into small pellets. The Intermissi­on portion of the meal consisted of soda bread and cream scones served with sugarplums­cented black tea.

Act 2 brings a colorful variety of sweets, from a rich chocolate truffle rolled in nuts to a tart, airy framboise custard. Craft and creativity make St. James Tearoom a special experience, even in takeout mode.

 ?? RICHARD S. DARGAN/FOR THE JOURNAL ??
RICHARD S. DARGAN/FOR THE JOURNAL

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