On the side
SLICE PARLOR ★★★ 9904 Montgomery NE, 505-232-2808, sliceparlor.com
The idea of serving pizza by the slice grew out of the shift from coal- to gas-powered ovens in 1930s New York City. Pizzas tended to bake up a little drier in the newer ovens, giving them a longer shelf life.
In Albuquerque, Dion’s has been the dominant player in the pizza slice market. The success of Slice Parlor, a more recent arrival, proves there’s an appetite in the city for the thinner-crust version known as New York-style pizza.
Prices are a little higher than at Dion’s, but still a very good value. A massive slice that barely fits inside a pizza box costs $3.75, and a salad that feeds two is only $6. There are worthwhile daily specials; for instance, on Wednesdays, all beers are $3.
Among the salads on the menu, the House Salad ($5.99) is a standout. Everything was fresh, and a mound of sliced pepperoni and shredded mozzarella bulked it up enough for it to be a stand-alone lunch.
The New York-style cheese slice ($3.75) showcased Slice Parlor’s terrific crust: thin and pliable, and with lots of flavor. The thin lattice of melted cheese on top was just the right thickness, but the pizza could have used a little more sauce.
Slice Parlor also offers a bunch of specialty pizzas, such as a BLT version that’s topped with romaine and tomato salad tossed in ranch dressing.
A slice of the Zia pizza ($4.75) comes laden with green chile and pepperoni.
The gluten-free pie ($9.99) is not available by the slice.
Slice Parlor keeps the New York City theme going in its dessert menu, offering cheesecake with strawberries and a cannoli for $2.99 each.