On the side
KUKRI
★★★1/2
505 Central NW, 505-225-7482, kukriabq.com
KuKri’s menu is divided up into appetizers and four entrees called the Mains.
Most of the food is of the heavy, stick-to-your-ribs variety, like an appetizer of Cheese Curds with Green Chile Ranch ($7). The closest thing to a salad is a Slaw ($2) of cabbage, carrots, jicama, celery, peppers and onions served piled to overflowing in a small cup. The fresh, shredded veggies were dressed in a honey mustard vinaigrette.
Headlining the entrees is the signature KuKri Sandwich ($12.50) comprised of two fat tenders breaded and fried to a dark brown and served on a brioche bun. The chicken was moist, the thick, crackling coating clung to it and the bun held up well. It’s a great sandwich, with the pickles, slaw and tikka sauce adding heat and crunch.
Equally good was an order of Tikka Fries ($13.50), the fries serving as the base for a colorful pile of cut-up chicken, sauces, veggies and cilantro. The fries around the edge of the pile stayed crisp, while the ones underneath softened to the texture of a baked potato as they absorbed the garlicky, blazing medley of sauces.
Deciding among the four entrees is complicated by the five different heat levels offered, from mild to insanely hot. I chose medium and found the designation accurate. It was spicy enough to make the nose run, but not so much as to obscure the other flavors.
The menu also features tandoori chicken wings and two brunch specials: chicken and waffles, and honey butter biscuits.
The chicken is halal, which means it is prepared according to Islamic law. Other than the slaw, there’s nothing on the menu for gluten-free and vegan diners.