THE FRENCH CONNECTION
Mille delivers the best of the City of Lights to the City Different
Consider this a gentle reminder — Valentine’s Day is next Tuesday. Whether you are married, partnered or flying solo, I have a wonderful way for you to celebrate the day of love that won’t put you in debt, doesn’t require an airplane or reservations, and promises to dazzle you and your guest with an exquisite French café experience in the heart of downtown Santa Fe.
Since most of us won’t be traveling to the City of Lights for authentic French croissants, crêpes, mussels and fries, salad niçoise or cassoulet, it’s comforting to know that Mille French Café and Crêperie awaits. Located on West Alameda Street, Mille recently celebrated their first anniversary in Santa Fe. Marcel Remillieux and his wife, Stephanie, started Fleur de Lys in Los Alamos in 2017 where they enjoyed great success in the small scientific town. But when their lease was not renewed, they decided to take a leap of faith and relocate to the big city. And what a smart move it was — for them and us.
I have been to Mille many times but returned on a bright and sunny winter Sunday morning for brunch to find it hopping with a line of at least 10 people in front of me — and a mostly full house of diners. Looking around, I quickly felt we could be anywhere as there were people speaking French, Spanish and English. The indoor space and covered outdoor patio was filled with couples, young adults and families. Everyone was basking in the casual French atmosphere and glorious brunch smells of butter, eggs
and bread.
The menu is simple and straightforward, but with plenty of decadent French items you know and love including Croque Madame ($13.95) and Croissants. With menu headings of Brunch, Crepes (Savory and Sweet), Lunch and Cold Sandwiches, you will also find a case of baked goods and a variety of beverages including a wide array of excellent coffee drinks made using a special blend from 35° North, teas, hot chocolate, matcha latte, chai latte and a short but serious list of 100% French wines which pair well with the dishes on the menu. Of the exquisite coffee, Remillieux says, “When I was a LANL scientist, one of my colleagues was the father of the 35° North roaster. His coffee is consistent and it’s an amazing partnership for us.” Hint — don’t miss the coffee.
Having previously tried the Quiche Lorraine ($11.25), I opted for the Quiche Florentine ($11.25) and was smitten. The kitchen graciously heated the quiche and it was extra! Let’s start with the crust. Buttery and
tender but sturdy, it has heft and weight for the soft eggs, ricotta and spinach. All quiches are served with a side of mixed greens and a delicious Dijon vinaigrette, made with only five ingredients — spicy French mustard, olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper.
One dining companion was
in the mood for a crêpe. When her Nordic Crêpe ($12.50) arrived, she was reveling in the generous serving of smoked salmon. A perfect crêpe was filled with Swiss cheese and a schmear of sour cream, and topped with plenty of smoked salmon and briny capers. My friend proclaimed this dish reminds her of “a traditional Sunday bagel with smoked salmon in a crêpe.”
My other companion opted for the Hungry Man Special and dove into the Monte Cristo sandwich ($13.35). This monster of a sandwich is filled with ham, turkey and Gruyere cheese, dipped in egg batter and then pan-fried for the perfect combination of ooey-gooey deliciousness. But that’s not all. Then they douse the sandwich with raspberry jam and a dusting of powdered sugar. Just because. And a side of greens. He loved the savory and sweet combination and how the jam really complemented the cheese. Needless to say, there was nothing left on his plate.
In previous visits, I have enjoyed a Salade Niçoise ($14.35), a French favorite. Mixed greens are topped with haricot verts, hard-boiled egg, baby potatoes, tomatoes, anchovies, Niçoise olives and seared tuna, with a side of Dijon vinaigrette. The salad is substantial but feels totally wholesome because it is. What’s next on my list of items to try is the Salade Roquefort ($13.95) that features spring mix and arugula, Roquefort cheese, walnuts, sliced apples and pears and a balsamic