On the side
PALOMA
★★★1/2
401 South Guadalupe, Santa Fe, palomasantafe.com
Meaning “female dove” in Spanish, Paloma weaves together a jubilant atmosphere filled with vibrant Mexican art and food.
Featuring a crispy homemade tostada, the Tuna Tostaditos ($16) are the rock star starter. Fried until golden, two tortilla halves are slathered with a generous layer of guacamole and topped with tuna tartare and a sprinkling of epazote leaves. This is an exceptionally light and tasty way to open your mind and taste buds.
My dining companion ordered the Grilled Sea Bass ($38), a popular entree. A slender, crispy skinned fish filet comes with potatoes and roasted poblanos in a savory fish stock infused with spicy tomato-broth.
The Mushroom Quesadilla ($16) is another treat. A large homemade blue corn tortilla is stuffed with Oaxacan cheese and sauteed local mushrooms. This unctuous and hearty quesadilla is served with a salsa that reeled me in.
Vegetarians will find a happy home at Paloma. We ordered the Roasted Carrots ($10) followed the waiter’s suggestion with the Crispy Brussels Sprouts ($10). I love Brussels, but found the spicy-sweet fried balls due for a reinvention as the combination feels more Asian than Mexican. But the Roasted Carrots were so interesting. Pan-roasted, locally-grown carrots are tossed with chile-lime peanuts and dressed with herbed mojo verde.
Though we didn’t try dessert that night, I returned and quickly opted for the Mole Mousse ($15), a rich, dark chocolate dome on top of a soft chocolate cookie is draped in chocolate. A sprinkling of preserved cherry halves, pepitas and crispy granola brings together well-played flavors and textures to make this a signature dessert.