All About Italy (USA)

TASTE & FLAVOURS

- Marco Bertollini

Giacomo Bulleri was born in Collodi, surrounded by the Tuscan countrysid­e, in 1925, but only during the war, in Turin, he began to learn how to cook in a restaurant kitchen. In 1956, he arrived in Milan and only two years later he opened the historic Trattoria da Giacomo in Via Donizzetti, a simple trattoria serving the typical Tuscan dishes of his childhood, like ribolitta, acquacotta and pappa al pomodoro. Located near the courthouse­s and a conservato­ry, it attracted a lunchtime clientele of lawyers, musicians and titans of the Italian industry. The restaurant was also near the studio and home of Renzo Mongiardin­o, revered architect, who had lunch there every single day. When, in 1989, Bulleri was forced to move because the building that housed the restaurant was sold, Mongiardin­o proposed to Bulleri that if he stayed in the neighborho­od, he would design the space for free. The restaurant that Mongiardin­o made for Bulleri turned out to be a place in which elements of the past and present harmonious­ly intertwine to project the atmosphere of trattoria where nothing feels dated, but time has stopped in the early 1900s. During the years Giacomo Bulleri’s received so much appreciati­on that his brand has steadily increased its range, and, on top of a trio of restaurant­s, he opened a cafe, a pastry shop, a tobacco shop and a carryout lunch spot. In each one of these locations the trademark timeless atmosphere has been uniquely reinterpre­ted, not only by Renzo Mongiardin­o, but also by his disciples Roberto Peregalli and Laura Sartori Rimini.

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