All About Italy (USA)

THE BICERIN, THE TURIN DELIGHT WITH MORE THAN 250 YEARS OF HISTORY

- Sascha Mallinckro­dt

There is only one drink that, for more than 250 years, is agreed on and brings the people of Turin together: Bicerin. Literally it means “small glass”, but in reality, it is an explosion of taste. It’s a particular coffee that is not served in a cup, but in a small transparen­t glass goblet, without a handle, which is then placed on a saucer. Its origin dates back to 1763, at the historical Turin café “Caffè al Bicerin” (which changed its name to the same as the drink after its success). The Bicerin is made with just a few ingredient­s such as chocolate, coffee and fior di latte (milk of the highest caliber), this specialty was born in Turin, and for years has conquered the Piedmontes­e palate and many others. Giuseppe Dentis opened the Café in front of the entrance of the Sanctuary of the Consolata, a strategic position where soon the new blend became the ideal sustenance for the faithful who, after Mass and after fasting for communion, found in the bicerin a sweet and energetic comfort. The same was true during the period of Lent: since hot chocolate was not considered “food”, it could also be drunk when fasting.

As is the case with all unique and inimitable recipes, and despite its having been passed down over the years, this recipe is still to this day a jealously kept secret. However, the bicerin, more than an invention, should be classified as an evolution of the Bavarian coffee, a drink in vogue in the 18th century and composed of coffee, chocolate, milk and syrup, served separately; it was then up to the customer to combine the ingredient­s, according to a ritual that ended with the serving filling up a large coffee glass.

The drink through centuries of history, succeeded in making historical figures like Camillo Benso Count of Cavour, Alexandre Dumas, Pablo Picasso and Ernest Hemingway fall in love with its taste. Umberto Eco, was such a devotee of the bicerin to the point of mentioning it in his work “The Prague Cemetery”. Needless to say, the one at “Caffè il Bicerin” is a must for those who visit Turin, especially in winter. Nothing has changed here since the nineteenth century: the same space with marble tables, porcelain plates, dark counter and vases of colored sugared almonds behind the cash register. A timeless place to indulge in the taste of a Piedmontes­e tradition.

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