All About Italy (USA)

THE TOD’S MAN OF THE UPCOMING AUTUMN-WINTER

- Lucia Mancini

Dressing with style while breaking the rules, respecting one’s own identity while at the same time expressing elegance: traits that are common in the Tod’s man, for which the brand has establishe­d an outsiders club, the T Club. The Italian brand’s men’s autumn-winter 2020/2021 collection is the first under the creative direction of Walter Chiapponi, who gives life to a classy wardrobe without giving up a rebellious heart. It is inspired by those men who know how to wear the classics while remaining a free and irreverent soul.

Each creation of the new collection brings out the 100% Italian DNA which has always distinguis­hed

Tod’s. A unique and sophistica­ted style that differenti­ates this high-class brand from others. The man of the upcoming autumn-winter as seen by a group from the Marches region chooses colors of an elegance that is subdued, such as camel, tobacco, military green as well as black and white, which contrast with bright denim blue and bright red tones.

All this available in garments that may be easily mixed and matched, with different looks, seemingly tailored jeans and leather and sherling outerwear that express a style which, on the one hand echoes the ‘70s and, on the other, gives a nod to the aviators of the past.

The selected materials are genuine just as the cloths, cottons, kid mohair and the leathers crafted with the softness of the

fabric are where the techniques of ancient stitching emerge. The Tod’s man wears driving coats and peacoats, mountain jackets and tuxedoes, down jackets, blazers, leather jackets and double-breasted coats which are all reinterpre­ted in a modern light, with an innovative and antithetic­al perspectiv­e: the down jacket is now more of an urban and elegant garment while, to the contrary, the coats and formal garments are reinterpre­ted in a casual sphere. The references to the military world, typical of the Tod’s style, are found in the jackets’ very large pockets, in waxed fabrics and flannels. The new autumn-winter 2020-2021 collection, could not be missing the trench coat, another garment which is very dear to the Tod’s fashion philosophy: this collection is conceived

with a lot of leather details, and it actually becomes outdoor technical wear. Polo shirts and turtleneck­s, even mixed together, reign, replacing the classic shirt for the total look. Protagonis­ts on the feet of Walter Chiapponi’s man are the winter “Gommino” (“rubber tip” in Italian), the iconic ankle boots characteri­zed by the Tod’s distinctiv­e rubber-nubbed sole, with the T Timeless logo repeating on shoes and bags it underscore­s the excellence of Italian craftsmans­hip in leather and waxed fabric. However, in this collection there are also brushed leather moccasins, sneakers and more formal shoes, which become every day shoes thanks to the marked stitching and thick rubber soles.

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