Dunderbak’s

that other line. Want a sandwich (there’s a counter in the back), get into that line. Want all of the above and drinks? You’re going to have to do some line-hopping, paying at one station then retrieving your various items — with staff assistance — from the others (it can be tricky when the snug entrance is crowded with customers, shopping bags and strollers).

Then it’s time to find a seat — at one of the stools out front, at counters that line the side or in the back where chairs, armchairs and booths fill the dim, more spacious Old-World rathskeller-esque interior, decorated with hanging baskets and flags.

So much for the new offerings. We sought full meat and full wheat.

During two visits, we tried the salty, satisfying bratwurst (on one occasion, we were given a much longer-thanthe-link roll) and a smoky, suitable Polish. We ordered them smothered in sauerkraut, and then added our own mustard and grilled onions — available for self-service on the front counter.

But the Dunderbak’s delicacy we most looked forward to sampling was the pretzel ($1.15-$2.25), primarily the legendary Deluxe Pretzel, spackled with spreadable cheese (choice of a champagne, port wine, garlic, cheddar), then stacked with sodium in the form of corned beef and diced dill pickle.

It might sound weird — and look that way, especially if you elect the not-found-innature, nuclear-colored, rich port wine spread — but it’s a guilty-favorite kind of wonderful. Those seeking something simpler can always pick a “plain” pretzel that we’d be more likely to call “perfect,” in texture, color, salt and toasty temperature.

Surprises await at the sandwich counter. In addition to requisite sandwiches like Reubens ($5.85), Dunderbak’s serves a bagel with lox ($6.25); Middle Eastern fare like hummus, gyros and falafel ($4.25-$6.50); a “vegetarian” meatball hoagie ($7.50); and a “vegan” turkey sandwich ($5.50).

One can also go the “Your Creation” route ($6.50), choosing meat, cheese and bread from a menu. That’s what my dining companion did, selecting a piled-high corned beef and Swiss (wait, isn’t that a Reuben? Not quite — he chose ciabatta bread instead of rye). Sandwiches come with chips and a pickle spear. German potato salad ($2.65) is available as a side.

Also available at the sandwich counter: a meat and cheese plate ($11.95), which includes a half-pound of meat (ham, turkey or German salami) and a quarter-pound of cheese (cheddar, provolone, Swiss or pepper).

Oh, and it comes with crackers. Regular or glutenfree ($1 charge), of course.