Hide middle-aged paunch with looser pants and belt

Q. I work as a trainer in an environment where business casual (shirt and tie, no jacket) is the accepted norm. I am not all that comfortable in a shirt and tie, and I think my paunch makes me look goofy when dressed up. I tend to be a Dockers and button-down print shirt type. Assuming I do not suddenly lose that weight, what alternatives to the standard shirt and tie do you think would be acceptable in this environment?

A. At first the idea of “Dockers and button-down shirt” seemed like an acceptable alternative. However, it’s that “print shirt” that makes me nervous! If you mean a small plaid, a subtle check, or a tasteful stripe, then I have no quarrel with your choice. But, if by “print” you mean a squiggle design, a Hawaiian print, or some equivalent, then it does not seem appropriate in a training environment where you, as the trainer, should be setting an example.

Another possibility worries me: “Print shirts” often have short sleeves. This is not top-drawer dressing, and most certainly not professional when paired with a tie. Of course, a solid-color, Oxford cloth button-down shirt is always right; perhaps you can wear one open at the neck, without a tie. On occasion, you might enjoy wearing a shirt and blazer, rather than a shirt and tie. A fine quality solid color knit polo shirt might be acceptable (one that is neither tight nor clingy), or it might be too casual. Check out the other men.

I’m not sure why you’re not comfortable in a shirt and tie. If you feel you cannot wear one because of your build, then your ties may be too short (or tied too short), planing out from your belly, or so long that it wags below your belly. An appropriate-length tie, without wild designs or horizontal stripes, will make you look more professional. Perhaps the problem is you equate ties, even without a jacket, with being “dressed up” and that bothers you. Sorry, I can’t guess at the psychology.

Avoid the most common mistakes heavy men tend to make:

Wearing trousers too tight at the waist or too low on the hips, thus, emphasizing an overhanging “cantilevered” belly.

Too- tight, or attention-- belts. You never want anything that draws attention to your middle. Consider wearing suspenders (not the hokey “clip-ons,” but button-ons). They add a note of style while visually directing the eye vertically, rather than drawing attention to the horizontal belt line.

Wearing bulky textures, large patterns, and anything with horizontal stripes.

With fall and winter ahead of you, there is an ideal answer for a heavier man’s business casual: the sweater. Develop a collection of good-looking sweaters — lightweight cottons for warm fall days and next summer, and heavier cottons or lightweight wools for cooler weather. Versatile styles from V-neck vests to crewneck pullovers and lapeled cardigans offer various ways to add refinement and polish to a shirt worn without a jacket. Incidentally, here is where a pattern can look terrific.

Some of the handsomest sweaters come in great-looking designs. And, as Bill Cosby so convincingly proved way back when, a sweater does wonders for sliding past (and disguising) the waistline, nicely camouflaging one’s too-hefty middle. Layer your sweater over a solid-color shirt; wear it without a tie or with one, if you’re willing.