Eclectic flavor mix gives chicken zing

This dish, from Claudia Roden, is a fine example of how a classic cookbook keeps on giving. Her 1996 Book of Jewish Food doesn’t label its recipes “fast” or “easy” or “seasonal,” so revisiting a chapter every now and then yields unexpectedly apt treasures. Here, the last- minute stirring- in of fresh mint takes a combination of ordinary ingredients to someplace special. The dish is loaded with more savory turmeric-and ginger- tinged vegetables than with meat.

When you have time to let the ingredients cook longer in the pot, use bone- in chicken, and you’ll be rewarded with more flavor.

Jarred ginger- garlic paste ( and separate jarred ginger paste and garlic puree) is available in the international aisle ( Indian section) of supermarkets or with the fresh herbs in the produce department.

Minty Carrot Chicken

2 large white onions 2 large cloves garlic 3 tablespoons sesame oil ( not toasted; may substitute sunflower oil) 1 ¼ pounds carrots 1 serrano chile pepper 1 ¼ pounds boneless, skinless

chicken thighs Kosher salt 2 tablespoons ginger- garlic paste ( may blend equal parts ginger paste and garlic paste) 1 teaspoon ground turmeric Water Leaves from 4 to 6 stems fresh

mint

Cut the onions in half, then cut each half into thin halfmoons. Cut the garlic lengthwise into very thin slices.

Heat the oil in a large saute pan or deep- sided skillet over medium heat. Once the oil shimmers, stir in the onion and garlic until well coated. Cook for about 8 minutes, stirring a few times, until just softened.

Meanwhile, scrub the carrots well. Working with one at a time, cut a lengthwise strip off one side, then turn the carrot cut side down ( to steady it). Cut the remaining carrot into long, thin strips, then cut the strips into 1- inch lengths.

Cut the serrano pepper in half; stem and seed it, then cut the flesh lengthwise into strips, the thickness of which depends on whether you want to use them just for flavoring the sauce ( thick strips) or whether you’ll be eating them ( very thin strips).

Trim the chicken of excess fat. Season the chicken lightly all over with salt.

Add the ginger- garlic paste, the strips of serrano pepper and the ground turmeric to the onion- garlic mixture in the pan. Cook for 1 minute, stirring, then temporarily transfer most of the mixture to a large bowl.

Add the chicken thighs to the pan; increase the heat to medium- high. Cook for 5 minutes, turning once halfway through, until the chicken is lightly browned on both sides. ( It will not be cooked through.)

Add the carrots, then return the onion- garlic mixture to the pan. Pour in just enough water to cover ( 2 to 3 cups). Add a pinch of salt and cook ( uncovered, still over medium- high heat) for about 10 minutes, stirring a few times, so the mixture is at a lively bubble; the chicken should be cooked through, the carrots should be tender and the liquid in the pan should have reduced a bit. Turn off the heat.

Meanwhile, finely chop the mint ( to yield at least 3 tablespoons); stir it into the mixture in the pan. If you’ve used thick- cut strips of serrano, you might wish to discard them. Taste, and add salt as needed. Serve hot. Makes 4 servings. Nutrition information: Each serving contains approximately 380 calories, 31 g protein, 16 g fat, 31 g carbohydrate ( 14 g sugar), 125 mg cholesterol, 400 mg sodium and 7 g fiber.

Carbohydrate choices: 2.

Recipe adapted from The Book of Jewish Food: An Odyssey From Samarkand to New York by Claudia Roden ( Alfred A. Knopf)