Arkansas Democrat-Gazette

Turn a hunk of deer meat into a gourmet meal

- BY KEITH SUTTON Contributi­ng Writer

When I was young, I hunted deer with a group of elder statesmen at a river-bottom camp in eastern Arkansas. I have many good memories of those times, including some revolving around camp traditions. A hunter who shot at and missed a deer, for example, had his shirt-tail cut off. A young nimrod who killed his first deer would be “blooded” by camp members.

Another tradit ion involved the first deer killed each season. That deer was a “camp deer.” The animal was skinned; then the hunters removed the choicest cuts of venison — first, the two slender, foot-long tenderloin­s lying along the backbone inside the body cavity, followed by the two thick, boneless loins, or backstraps, on the back between the deer’s hindquarte­rs and the base of its neck. Tradition dictated that these choice cuts of venison be shared with everyone in camp.

The hunter who killed the deer usually cooked it as well because everyone else was still hunting. For this reason, the method of cookery varied considerab­ly. At times, a simple preparatio­n technique was used — little medallions of loin battered and fried in a skillet, for example, or a whole loin cooked on a spit over the campfire with nothing more than a sprinkling of salt and pepper. Some backwoods chefs fawned over their meal like a caterer cooking for a soirée, whipping up special rubs or sauces to highlight the delicious flavor of the venison or using savory cooking methods such as braising, grilling and flambéing.

Regardless of the cooking method, plain or fancy, the venison was always delicious, and it was gone in the blink of an eye. Leftovers were unheard of.

Properly cooked venison is richer in flavor than choice beef. It’s also higher in protein and minerals, and because it’s leaner than beef, it has fewer calories. Wild venison also lacks the chemicals commonly given to domestic livestock.

Venison has another delightful quality as well. This rich-tasting meat is complement­ed by many different flavors, so when cooking, your choice of marinades, sauces, rubs and other flavoring agents is almost endless. Part of the fun of cooking venison is experiment­ing, so if you want to alter the recipes at the end of this article to better suit your personal tastes, please do.

COOKING VENISON

If you’ve given your deer proper care, the meat will have a delicious flavor you’ll be proud to share with family and friends. All the cuts of meat, from the heart to the hams, can be used to create scrumptiou­s gourmet meals at home. Tender cuts like the loin, plus steaks and roasts from young animals, can be broiled, grilled or roasted. Venison is dry, lean meat, however, so add suet, butter or other fat when these techniques are used. Less tender cuts, like the neck, shanks, flank and brisket, are best cooked using moist heat methods such as braising, stewing or pot-roasting. These cuts can also be ground for deerburger, sausage or mincemeat, or made into jerky.

The key to great venison is to not overcook it. The meat toughens considerab­ly if cooked too long or at too high a temperatur­e. Plan to serve deer meat medium rare to well done, but never overdone.

Marinades help tenderize and flavor venison. Place the meat in a nonmetalli­c bowl; then cover with your favorite marinade, and refrigerat­e for 2 to 24 hours before cooking.

The flavor and texture of ground venison is enhanced by adding fat. About one-half pound of ground pork with 3 pounds of venison adds juiciness.

RECIPES

My family is fortunate to kill several deer each year. For us, it’s not the shooting that matters, but what we do with this food we gather: how we prepare each deer to eat, how we share it with friends and family, how we raise our glasses before we eat and thank the animals for their lives. This is why we are hunters — because we want this kind of intimate relationsh­ip with the food we eat, and because we want our food to be good. Venison fills the bill. If you try these recipes, some of our family favorites, we think you’ll agree.

PAPRIKAPEPPER BREAKFAST STEAKS

Ingredient­s: 1 teaspoon paprika 1/2 teaspoon onion powder 1/2 teaspoon garlic salt 1/2 teaspoon cilantro 1/2 teaspoon black pepper 1/4 teaspoon Ac’cent flavor enhancer 1/4 teaspoon white pepper Dash cayenne pepper 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon butter or margarine 1 pound venison steak or tenderloin,

sliced 1/4-inch thick

Directions:

Thoroughly combine all spices and herbs. Heat the olive oil and butter or margarine over medium heat in a skillet. Stir to mix.

Pierce each piece of meat all over, on both sides, with a fork. Sprinkle each side with the herb/spice mixture (lightly if you prefer a less spicy taste, heavily for real pizzazz), and press it into the meat with your fingers. Sear each side of the venison pieces in the hot oil/butter mixture, and cook until done to taste. Serve immediatel­y, hot from the pan. Serves 2 to 4.

VENISON HEART TERIYAKI

Ingredient­s: 2 tablespoon­s butter or margarine 4 tablespoon­s teriyaki sauce 2 tablespoon­s olive or vegetable oil 1 medium onion, diced 1 venison heart, cut in 1/2-inch slices Salt and pepper

Directions:

In a large skillet, heat the butter, teriyaki sauce and oil over medium heat. Add the diced onions, and cook until tender. Place slices of heart in the pan, and cook 2 minutes on each side. Don’t overcook. Salt and pepper to taste. Serves 2 to 4.

MARINATED VENISON SHISH KABOBS

Ingredient­s: 3 pounds venison, cubed 1/2 cup red-wine vinegar 1/2 cup vegetable oil 1/3 cup chopped onion 1 tablespoon Worcesters­hire sauce 1 garlic clove, minced (or 1/2

teaspoon garlic powder) 1 tablespoon unseasoned meat

tenderizer 1/4 teaspoon black pepper Cherry tomatoes, fresh mushrooms,

chunks of green pepper and onion

Directions:

Mix all ingredient­s except the venison and veggies in a zip-seal freezer bag. Add the meat, and marinate overnight in the refrigerat­or. Pour off the marinade. Alternate cubes of meat and vegetables on bamboo or metal skewers, and grill to desired doneness, turning often. Serves 6 to 8.

BRANDY FLAMED PEPPERCORN STEAK

Ingredient­s: 3 tablespoon­s crushed black

peppercorn­s 2 venison steaks or loin slices 1 tablespoon lemon pepper 1 teaspoon salt 5 tablespoon­s butter 2 cloves garlic, minced 1/2 cup red wine 3 tablespoon­s brandy 1/4 cup chopped green onions 1 shallot, chopped 1/2 cup heavy cream

Directions:

Press crushed peppercorn­s into both sides of each steak. Sprinkle with lemon pepper and salt.

Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Stir in the garlic and wine, and cook for 1 minute. Arrange the steaks in the pan, and cook for 3 minutes per side. Reduce heat to low.

Pour brandy onto the steaks, and carefully light with a long match. Let the flames burn off. Sprinkle green onion and shallot around the steaks, and pour the cream around the steaks. Cook, stirring the sauce, until hot. Transfer the steaks to plates, and spoon the sauce over the meat. Serves 2.

 ?? PHOTOS BY KEITH SUTTON/CONTRIBUTI­NG PHOTOGRAPH­ER ?? The hunter who kills a deer is blessed indeed. Properly prepared, whitetails like this one killed by Alex Hinson of Paron will provide the makings for many delectable meals.
PHOTOS BY KEITH SUTTON/CONTRIBUTI­NG PHOTOGRAPH­ER The hunter who kills a deer is blessed indeed. Properly prepared, whitetails like this one killed by Alex Hinson of Paron will provide the makings for many delectable meals.
 ??  ?? Paprika-Pepper Breakfast Steaks are quick and easy to prepare. Serve them for breakfast for a special treat.
Paprika-Pepper Breakfast Steaks are quick and easy to prepare. Serve them for breakfast for a special treat.
 ??  ?? Venison is suited for use in a wide variety of recipes, but for the best taste, always take time to trim away every bit of fat, silverskin, cartilage and blood-shot areas.
Venison is suited for use in a wide variety of recipes, but for the best taste, always take time to trim away every bit of fat, silverskin, cartilage and blood-shot areas.

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