Seed starting two-step
Sowing once, transplanting twice helps ward off problems.
Every gardener has watched seedlings fail on the windowsill. Starting seed indoors isn’t easy, but it’s necessary. In many areas, the last frost is too late to start long-term crops — such as tomatoes — that ripen over the summer. We want to start them earlier so seedlings are ready to move into the gardens as soon as the weather and soil temperatures allow. Those not willing to start their own seeds will spend a great deal more buying seedlings at the garden center.
There are a dozen ways to fail. Seeds rot in wet material, they melt down from fungi, some never germinate at all. What drives a lot of this is keeping sown seeds evenly moist in a standard pot without them drying out.
After seeds are sown, only surface moisture is needed for germination; only later on is deeper moisture valuable. Failure is caused by deeper moisture in very cool, dry winter conditions that fosters seed killing rot and fungus. Fungal hyphae can travel upward to attack seeds, roots or seedlings. Seedlings shrivel as a result, so you naturally think they’re dehydrated and water again.
There is an easy way to get around all of this trouble: Use a two-step process. Collect the ultimate seed starters: lidded fruit or salad boxes that are clear plastic and have lots of holes for air and drainage. Each one of these becomes a mini greenhouse that maintains even moisture and reduces evaporation. These take all the guesswork out of seed germination — and they’re free.
Use seed-starting media or quality potting soil to place an inch deep layer or more on the bottom of the box. Firm it gently in place. Sow your seeds and lightly spray with a squirt bottle to thoroughly moisten. Secure the lid and let the box sit in a warm place until seeds sprout. Once they’re up, place them in a sunny window, preferably south-facing for a week or two until they develop new leaves. Once they’re too tall for the germination box, it’s time to
move each seedling into its own pot.
Recycled plastic six-packs from previous plants are the best for starting seedlings. Any other recycled pots are ideal, too, because they don’t get soggy and can be reused year after year. When you’re ready to transplant, first fill and firm all the containers with fine potting soil. Then use the tip of a butter knife to pluck out each of the tiny seedlings from the lidded box to plant in pots in the open air. This is where they will grow a larger root system before going outside. These plants require plenty of sun and good drainage.
To water small pots like this easily, place them in a plastic box or metal brownie pan. Fill the pan with an inch of warm water and let it wick through the drain holes to saturate the soil from the bottom up. This places the most moisture at the bottom of the pot to draw roots as deeply as possible for more drought-resistant and vigorous plants. This method also eliminates the need to top-water, which can result in mildew, stem rot or dislodging the seedling. Let the pots sit in the water until moisture shows on the drier surface (20 minutes or so). Remove from the water, allow to drain thoroughly, and return to the growing area.
The reason so many seed starting efforts fail is because it’s promoted as a one-step process from seed to six packs like commercial growers do in controlled conditions. For germination success of your own, use this two-step process. Then bring them out when the time is right to flourish, flower and fruit as early as possible.