Win her over with a classic pasta dish
It’s nearly impossible for me to see a plate of pillowy gnocchi without thinking of my mom, Marilyn. She made this homemade potato pasta on Tuesdays at the window of my sister’s shop, Salumi, in Seattle, and it’s a classic Batali family recipe that makes for the perfect Mother’s Day meal.
Perhaps the best part about gnocchi is that no pasta maker is required. My mom’s technique requires a few simple steps and is the only method I’ve ever used. Rolling each gnocchi down the tines of a fork to create the delightful ridges that hold the “condimento” or sauce has always been my favorite part. This step is also a fantastic way for your kids to help and realize the deliciousness of a handmade meal.
Though gnocchi pairs well with many different types of sauce, I prefer to toss them in a fresh pomodoro because that’s how my mom served it when we were growing up. They do say Mom knows best, right?
POTATO GNOCCHI AL POMODORO
Serves 4 to 6
Ingredients:
3 pounds starchy russet potatoes
2 cups all-purpose flour,
plus more for dusting
1 extra-large egg
Kosher salt
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 cups basic tomato sauce (see below) 12 fresh basil leaves
Directions:
Place the potatoes in a large saucepan, and add cool water to cover. Bring the water to a boil, and cook the potatoes until soft, about 45 minutes. While still warm, peel the potatoes, and pass them through a food mill onto a clean pasta board.
Bring 6 quarts water to a boil in a large pot. Set up an ice bath next to the stove with 4 cups of ice and 3 quarts water.
Make a well in the center of the potatoes and sprinkle them with the flour. Place the egg and a pinch of salt in the center of the well and, using a fork, stir the egg into the flour and potatoes. Bring the dough together, kneading gently until a ball is formed. Continue to knead gently for 4 minutes more, until the dough is dry to the touch. Cut a tennis ball-size hunk of dough off the main ball and roll it into a dowel about 3/4-inch thick.
Cut across the dowel to form lozenges about 1 inch long. Roll each down the tines of a fork to form the traditional gnocchi shape. Repeat with the remaining dough. Keep the formed gnocchi on a lightly floured baking sheet.
Drop a third of the gnocchi into the boiling water. When they are floating aggressively, after 3 to 4 minutes of cooking, remove the gnocchi with a slotted spoon and transfer to the ice bath. Repeat with the remaining batches of gnocchi, and allow all the gnocchi to cool in the ice bath. Drain the cooked gnocchi well, stir in the olive oil, cover, and refrigerate until ready to cook. The gnocchi will keep in the fridge for up to two days.
When you are ready to serve the gnocchi, bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a pasta pot, and add 2 tablespoons salt. Put the tomato sauce in a blender or a food processor, and blend until smooth and homogeneous; then pour the sauce into a 12- to 14-inch saute pan. Gently bring the sauce to a boil; then reduce the heat to maintain a simmer.
Place the gnocchi into the pasta pot, and cook until they all float, then use a slotted spoon or spider to carefully transfer the gnocchi to the pan with the sauce. Raise the heat to medium, and toss gently for about 30 seconds. Tear the basil leaves into a few pieces and add to the pan, and toss together for 30 seconds more. Dump the pasta and sauce into a heated bowl, and serve immediately.
BASIC TOMATO SAUCE
Makes 4 cups
Ingredients:
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 large Spanish onion,
cut into 1/4-inch dice
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 1 tablespoon chopped fresh
thyme leaves or 1 teaspoon dried 1/2 medium carrot, finely shredded 2 (28-ounce) cans whole
San Marzano tomatoes, carefully crushed by hand, juices reserved Kosher salt
Directions:
In a 3-quart saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat Add the onion and garlic, and cook until soft and light golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the thyme and carrot, and cook for 5 minutes more until the carrot is quite soft. Add the tomatoes and their juices, and bring to a boil, stirring often.
Reduce the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook for 30 minutes, until as thick as hot cereal. Season with salt. This sauce will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to one week, or in the freezer for up to six months.