Try this ultimate seafood supper
Clam diggers. Have you ever heard of them? Commonly known as “capris,” these calve-length pants were a staple in my wardrobe in the 1970s (perhaps this is when I first met the “fashion police”) as I went clamming with my family in Puget Sound. Collecting bivalves while wading in the chilly Pacific was one of my favorite summer activities because, similar to picking blackberries, clams seemed so plentiful and deliciously free. Plus, my siblings and I always knew that an al fresco feast would follow.
Cooking seafood in cartoccio (in a bag) is one of the easiest and most fun ways to prepare it, and it’s virtually foolproof. The technique required in this recipe is minimal: It’s all about making sure your grill or piastra is hot enough so that the clams can properly steam. New Zealand cockles or Manila clams are my choice here because they cook quickly and are the perfect size to pair with cherry tomatoes. If your fishmonger doesn’t have either clam on hand, go for another small variety, and revel in the briny deliciousness of whichever sea they came from.
The tomatoes and pancetta soak up the slightly sweet acidity of the white wine, simultaneously melding with the fragrant juices the clams release. When you hear a sweet symphony of wine bubbles and see the shells have opened, you know the clams are ready. Even if they overcook slightly, their steamy environment will keep them moist — and if you have to hold them for a few minutes before serving, they will stay hot and won’t dry out.
Serve this dish as a side
or with grilled garlic bread and a simple salad for a fantastic main course. Even if you don’t own a pair of clam diggers, this recipe is worth a shot for the ultimate seafood supper.
CLAMS IN CARTOCCIO
Serves 6
Ingredients:
3 pounds New Zealand cockles or small clams, such as Manilas, scrubbed
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 4 ounces pancetta, cut into 1/8-inch dice (ask the butcher to slice the pancetta 1/8-inch thick when you buy it)
2 red bell peppers, cored, seeded
and cut into 1/4-inch dice
6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 to 3 teaspoons
hot-red-pepper flakes
1 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh
Italian parsley
12 ripe Sungold or
cherry tomatoes, halved
Directions:
Heat a gas grill, or prepare a fire in a charcoal grill.
In a 10- to 12-inch saute pan, combine the oil and pancetta, and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the pancetta starts to brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the bell peppers, garlic and pepper flakes, and cook, stirring occasionally, just until the peppers begin to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the wine, and bring to a boil. Stir in the parsley, remove from the heat, and set aside to cool completely.
Cut six 12-inch squares of heavy-duty foil. Lay out the squares on a large work surface, and fold up the edges of each one to form a shallow bowl. Divide the clams among them, then divide the pancetta mixture, with its liquid, among them. Scatter 4 tomato halves over each pile. Bring the four corners of each foil packet up over the clams like a hobo sack, and twist the top together securely, crimping the edges to create a tight seal.
Place the packs on the hottest part of the grill, and wait until you can hear the juices bubbling, about 2 to 3 minutes; then let cook for 4 minutes longer. Transfer the packets to a large platter, and serve.
Mario Batali is the chef behind 25 restaurants, including Eataly, Del Posto and his flagship Greenwich Village enoteca, Babbo.