Tux covers festive attire, but with colorful extras
Q. My wife and I received a New Year’s Eve invitation that said, “Festive Dress Encouraged.” Since I don’t get a lot of chances to dress in black tie, I am thinking of wearing my tuxedo. Do you think I will be overdressed? And if so, do you have a suggestion or two on how else to interpret this directive?
A. No, I do not think you will be overdressed. Most men who own their own black-tie attire welcome an opportunity to put it to good use. And your hosts will be pleased. If not on New Year’s Eve, then when? Since every man looks terrific — handsome, debonair, and, yes, sexy — in a tux, it would be a shame to pass up an opportunity to take yours out of the closet and treat it to a night out.
Most of the time, I am a stickler for “correct” black-tie attire that does not stray too far from the strict protocol of traditional formal wear; but, during the holiday season, men have a great deal more leeway. Even though, in the most elegant circles, black and white remains the rule for strictly formal events, since it is an option and not a requirement, you very well might enjoy veering off a bit. So, while I caution against totally abandoning the basics, you can wear nearly any variety of tux or jazz up a blacktie combination in any of several ways.
The jacket need not be the conventional single-breasted black wool. It could be a deep midnight blue, an almost-bold black watch tartan wool (dark green, navy, and black plaid), a double breasted with peak lapels, or even a black velvet at-home type “smoking jacket.”
The shirt is usually white cotton with formal pleated front and French cuffs, but the collar can be either a standard turned-down point style or the always-flattering wing collar.
The trousers have a formal stripe of ribbon down the outside of the leg. The stripe matches the fabric on the jacket’s lapel: either a shiny satin or a nonshiny faille (pronounced “file”). An accepted seasonal approach is to wear formal trousers made of black watch plaid wool.
The tie is most often a black silk bow tie, but here, too, the season and the event can make a difference. A colorful bow tie, that I might hesitate to endorse the rest of the year, is an easy way to dress out-of-the-box. Anything from a preppy plaid or a snowflake design to a bright fire-engine red solid would be a welcome “festive” touch.
The shoes do not have to be the most traditional formalwear shoes, namely black patent leather slip-on “dancing pumps” with a flat black fabric bow. These days, very few men own these; instead, most men wear simple, undecorated and highly polished black leather lace-ups. Some preppy dressers might show off with black velvet monogrammed slippers.
Embellishments that are suitable to black-tie attire can range from a matching or smartly contrasting single-breasted waistcoat, through an elegant white wool double-breasted vest, to a colorful (rather than a plain black) cummerbund. Studs and cuff links are expected with a tux, but at this time of year, they can be dressier and more elaborate than usual. Other additions might be a white linen or colored silk breast-pocket square or a small real boutonniere (I do not recommend wearing both).
If you decide against any variation of tuxedo dressing, you still have a lot of options. One is to wear a dressy dark suit with a fine French cuff shirt and an especially handsome bold-colored necktie. Add a tie clasp and pocket square, if you like. Perhaps you could resurrect a pair of polka dot or striped silk braces (suspenders). Or, substitute a well-cut navy blazer for the dark suit. You might even add a red cashmere sweater vest. Other dapper touches, such as a colored dress shirt with a white contrast-collar or an uncommonly bold Bengal striped shirt would work with the suit or the blazer. Bow ties are popular seasonal items even when not wearing a tuxedo. And if, in the past, you succumbed to an overly eye-catching checked or plaid sport jacket, now is certainly the time for it. Perhaps simplest of all, this could be the perfect time to break out any brightly colored socks you get for Christmas.
Several of these suggestions would also be fitting for a holiday invitation that did not even mention “festive dress” … festive can always be your own decision!
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