Selected restaurants
Weekly theme listings reflect a range of dining possibilities in central Arkansas, across a spectrum of settings and price ranges. Restaurant reviewers’ visits are anonymous and all expenses are paid by the Arkansas Democrat-Gazette.
Bargain: a meal (without beverage or dessert) typically less than $12. Moderate: $12 to $25. Expensive: $25 and up.
Catfish
CATFISH CITY & BBQ GRILL 1817 S. University Ave., Little Rock, (501) 663-7224. This veteran establishment serves tasty catfish — fried or grilled — plus shrimp, frog legs, hot wings, chicken tenders and barbecue. Lunch, dinner Mon-Sat. Reservations (large parties). Bargain. EAT MY CATFISH
Breckenridge Village Shopping Center, Interstate 430 and North Rodney Parham Road, Little Rock, (501) 222-8055; 1205 Military Road, Benton, (501) 909-2323; 2125 Harkrider St., Conway, (501) 588-1867. The new west Little Rock location of the minichain offers pretty good catfish, plus a menu of other, mostly fried, items, but with a couple of boiled/steamed options for those looking to avoid dietary fat. (Recommendations: fried shrimp, the shrimp po’boy, steamed snow crab and the hush puppies.) Lunch, dinner Mon-Sat, lunch Sun. Wine and beer. Moderate. FLYING FISH
511 President Clinton Ave., Little Rock, (501) 375-3474. The popular seafood shack continues to serve up, on an ever-expanding menu, fine fish, fried and otherwise, including some of the town’s best (and best drained) catfish. Lunch, dinner daily. Beer, wine. Bargain-moderate.
Barbecue
CAPITOL SMOKEHOUSE AND GRILL 915 W. Capitol Ave., Little Rock, (501) 372-4227. Candy Wilkerson operates this successful, modest, award-winning downtown barbecue-plus-plate-lunch shack without a hitch. Lunch Mon-Fri. Bargain. CORKY’S RIBS & BBQ
12005 Westhaven Drive, Little Rock, (501) 954-7427; 2947 Lakewood Village Drive, North Little Rock, (501) 753-3737. This nice, polite, suburban Memphis-based franchise barbecue operation, which serves well-smoked ribs, wet and dry, and some of the best baked beans, takes no risks but offers a few surprises at its two central Arkansas locations. Lunch, dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations (eight or more people). Bargain-moderate. SIMS BAR-B-QUE
2415 Broadway, Suite B, Little Rock, (501) 372-6868; 1307 John Barrow Road, Little Rock, (501) 224-2057; 7601 Geyer Springs Road, Little Rock, (501) 5628844. You can always count on this oldschool marvel for solid, messy and no-frills barbecue with a somewhat vinegary sauce; the ribs continue to be your best bet. Lunch, dinner. Mon-Sat. Beer at Broadway and John Barrow Road locations only. Bargain. UPDATE! WHOLE HOG CAFE
2516 Cantrell Road, Little Rock, (501) 664-5025; 12111 W. Markham St., Little Rock, (501) 907-6124; 5107 Warden Road, North Little Rock, (501) 7535228; 14524 Cantrell Road, Little Rock, (501) 673-3000. The barbecue minichain, built by a prize-winning competition team, continues to offer top-of-the-line pulled pork, savory beef brisket and amazing ribs and six sauces; the latest outlet, on Cantrell Road in west Little Rock, also offers excellent wings. Lunch, dinner daily at both Cantrell Road locations and West Markham, Mon-Sat in North Little Rock. Beer, wine. Bargain.