Portobello is the meat in this peppery burger

Some of the greatest chiles you’ll ever eat hail from New Mexico’s Hatch Valley, which is why — naturally enough — tiny Hatch, N.M., is known as “The Chili Capital of the World.”

There’s something about the soil and growing conditions in that region of New Mexico that creates the uniquely delicious flavor of the Hatch chile, just as the “terroir” of the world’s great wine-growing regions produces the best grapes. Hatch chiles are long and green (turning to red as they ripen), boasting a thick skin and thick flesh. Their heat ranges from mild to flaming hot. Locals tend to buy these favorites already roasted and in 25-pound bags, and then store the chiles in their freezer for use throughout the year. The rest of us can snatch them up in supermarkets from coast to coast or online in smaller amounts, already charred and peeled.

Roasted Hatch chiles are one of the signature ingredients of the well-loved Green Chile Cheeseburger. Here I’ve swapped out the beef in favor of portobello mushrooms.

Even without the beef, this burger is deluxe. It’s glorified not only by the chiles and cheese, but also by the smoky mayonnaise spread, and — the finishing touch! — the crushed tortilla chips. It’s a splendid way to celebrate the end of the summer season.

Green Chile Cheese Portobello Burger

2 tablespoons PLUS 2 teaspoons fresh lime juice, divided use

3 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 teaspoons minced garlic,

divided

1 ½ teaspoons ground cumin Kosher salt and freshly ground

black pepper

4 large portobello mushrooms,

stems and gills removed ½ cup mayonnaise ¾ teaspoon smoked paprika 4 chopped, peeled, roasted Hatch chiles (about 1 cup) OR 1 cup canned green chiles

4 hamburger buns 2 tablespoons melted butter

for brushing on the buns 1 cup crushed tortilla chips 4 thin slices sharp cheddar

(about 3 ounces total)

Heat the grill to medium.

In a small bowl, whisk together 2 tablespoons of the lime juice, the vegetable oil, 1 teaspoon of the garlic, the cumin, and salt and pepper to taste. Brush all of the marinade on the mushrooms, making sure to coat the insides (where the gills were) really well. Set the mushrooms aside for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, in another small bowl, combine the mayonnaise with the remaining 2 teaspoons lime juice, the remaining teaspoon garlic and the paprika.

In another bowl toss the chiles with salt and pepper to taste.

Brush the cut sides of the buns with the butter and toast them on the grill. Set aside while you grill the mushrooms.

Place the mushrooms on the grill, gill sides down, cover and grill them 6 to 8 minutes. Turn them over and grill on the other side, covered, until tender when pierced with a knife, another 6 to 8 minutes. Spoon one-fourth of the chiles on top of each mushroom. Top with one fourth of the crushed tortillas and a slice of the cheese. Cover and cook, until the cheese is melted, 1 to 2 minutes.

Spread the cut sides of the rolls with the mayonnaise. Transfer the mushroom “burgers” to the buns and serve right away.

Makes 4 servings. Nutrition information: Each serving contains approximately 716 calories, 13 g protein, 52 g fat, 51 g carbohydrate (7 g sugar), 50 mg cholesterol, 851 mg sodium and 8 g fiber.

Carbohydrate choices: 4.