Hay flavors modern take on 1849 ham recipe
To Cook a Ham is a short, paragraph-long recipe that was published in the Chicago Tribune on April 23, 1849. It may or may not be the first recipe printed in the newspaper — the online historical database goes back only to 1849 and the Tribune was launched in 1847 — but it is surely one of the earliest:
“To Cook A Ham: Boil a common sized ham four or five hours, then skin the whole and fit it for the table; then set it in the oven for half an hour, then cover it thickly with pounded rush or bread crumbs, and set it back for half an hour. Boiled ham is always improved by setting it in an oven for near an hour, till much of the fat fries out, and this also makes it more tender.”
It’s a recipe that, though antiquated in the modern sense of the genre, remains relevant given the Midwest’s love affair with all things pork.
I recently went looking for an update of the recipe, sending copies around to various Chicago restaurants. Among the responses was this interesting note from Dennis Bernard, chef de cuisine at The Publican, the Fulton Market restaurant noted for all things meaty.
“What we do at The Publican is actually a version of the Tribune ham recipe from 1849 — and have been doing since we opened 10 years ago,” Bernard wrote. Publican uses pork chops, brining, then braising them in pork stock flavored with hay for hours. This achieves “the same flavor profile as a cured ham … sweet, salty and a little funky, then we top them with a seasonal accompaniment … or breadcrumbs if you’re feeling nostalgic.”
Bernard’s note struck a chord with me as I tend to think (wrongly, I know) of cooking a ham only when I’m planning a holiday dinner or a big party. A pork cut like bone-in chops just seems more accessible to me.
This recipe, adapted from Cheers to the Publican: Repast and Present (Lorena Jones Books, $40) by Paul Kahan and Cosmo Goss, calls for roasting in a Dutch oven. If you can’t find hay, available at some farmers markets, buy dried corn husks used to wrap tamales. The Insta Cure is a curing salt that gives the pork that pink ham color; you may omit it. To toast a fresh bay leaf, hold it in tongs and run it through the flame on your stove or toast it in a dry castiron skillet over high heat for a few seconds.
The only caveat: The pork needs to brine for three days in the refrigerator and then dry, uncovered, overnight in the fridge. A wait, yes, but one that you really don’t have to fuss over.
Ham Chop in Hay
Brine: ¼ cup kosher salt ½ cup firmly packed brown sugar 1 tablespoon Insta Cure #1 or another curing salt (optional) 6 cups water 1 double-bone pork chop, 20 to 25 ounces 1 large handful hay or dried corn husks (enough to cover the chop on all sides) 3 sprigs thyme 1 fresh bay leaf, toasted (see headnote) or 2 dry bay leaves ½ bunch dandelion greens, torn into 2-inch-long pieces (arugula or kale can be substituted) 2 plums, pitted, cut into wedges, about ¾ cup Poppy Seed Dressing, (recipe follows)
Combine the salt, brown sugar and curing salt in a large pot along with the water. Heat over medium-high heat and cook until the pot comes to a simmer or the sugar and salt have dissolved. Let cool.
Add the pork chop to the brine and refrigerate for three days. Remove the pork chop from brine and let it dry, uncovered, in the refrigerator overnight. Take the chop out of the refrigerator 1 hour before cooking.
Put the chop in a Dutch oven with the hay (or corn husks), thyme and bay leaf; cover. Cook in a 375-degree oven until the meat’s internal temperature reaches 140 degrees on an instantread thermometer, about 45 minutes. Remove from the oven and let rest 10 minutes.
Toss together the dandelion greens and plums, and dress with the poppy seed dressing. Cut the chop off the bone into ½-inch-thick slices. Lay the slices on a serving platter, top with the dressed greens and plums. Serve.
Makes 2 to 3 servings.
Poppy Seed Dressing
½ cup buttermilk 1 tablespoon heavy cream ¼ cup mayonnaise 2¼ teaspoons Champagne or apple cider vinegar Zest and juice of 1 lemon 2½ tablespoons thinly sliced red onions 1½ tablespoons poppy seeds Sea salt and ground black pepper
Whisk everything together and taste. Adjust the salt and pepper if needed. Leftovers will keep refrigerated in an airtight container for up to one week.
Makes about 1¼ cups.