Arkansas Democrat-Gazette

Textile innovation­s aim for sustainabi­lity

- KATHERINE ROTH

Whether it’s how they’re made or what they’re made of, textiles are evolving to meet consumer demand for sustainabi­lity.

“There’s a real push for sustainabi­lity now, and the home textiles industry is waking up to that consumer call,” says Shannon Maher, chair of home products developmen­t at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York.

It’s about reducing waste during textile production, she said, and reusing or recycling waste to produce other products.

“Zero waste has definitely become a watchword,” she said.

Consumers today have a heightened awareness of the harm plastic does to the environmen­t, and “are willing to pay 5 or 10% more for a sustainabl­e product as a way of contributi­ng to the circular economy, and helping the environmen­t,” she says.

Rugs and outdoor fabrics, for instance, are increasing­ly being made with recycled materials instead of new plastics.

A lot is happening on the fashion-design front, too, to explore new, sustainabl­y sourced and even compostabl­e types of textiles.

“Companies like Adidas and Nike are at the cutting edge of some of these innovation­s, and their work — and innovation­s in textiles used for apparel — does trickle down to textiles in other realms,” Maher says.

An exhibit of textile innovation­s at the Cooper Hewitt Design Museum in New York City, on view through Jan. 20, includes a dress made by a Japanese design team that features naturally glowing silk, made from silkworms injected with a green fluorescen­t protein derived from jellyfish. There’s a prototype for Adidas sneakers made entirely of ocean plastic; another prototype of sneakers that would be entirely compostabl­e; and a textile made from algae.

“There’s a level of optimism when you look around and see designers really taking on the challenge of all this,” says Andrea Lipps, a curator at the Cooper Hewitt who helped organize the exhibit.

At the Fashion Institute of Technology, students have experiment­ed with using milkweed and flax to create luxurious “fur” from 100% plant material. That won them the Stella McCartney Prize for Sustainabl­e Fashion at the Biodesign Challenge Summit earlier this summer.

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