2 tricks to making the best vegan potato salad there is
Shenarri Freeman is something of a potato expert.
At Cadence, her postage-size restaurant in Manhattan’s East Village, a vegan potato salad is a star of the menu. The most surprising thing of all to this omnivore writer: It’s the best I’ve ever tasted.
Freeman says the potato salad has become even more of a hit now that hot weather is here.
It’s based on her mother’s recipe. “She made it ever since I can remember. But of course, it wasn’t vegan.” In fact, Freeman’s mom, Vernice, made what can only be considered a fully loaded potato salad, embellished with deviled eggs. The chef adapted it when she became vegan a few years ago.
What makes Freeman’s salad so good are the texture and flavor of the potatoes that hold the dish together. She has a singular way of boiling them, adding a tablespoon of oil to the cooking water, which makes the potato bites taste richer. She also doesn’t cook the bigger potatoes whole; she prefers to cut them first, so they hold their shape.
Her best trick is to chill the potatoes before tossing them with a dead-simple mix of mustardy vegan mayonnaise, studded with pickles and crunchy red onion and celery. After being cooled down, the potatoes become creamy, yet firm, and are able to stand up better to the brightly flavored, pungent dressing.
“Chilling helps the texture and set and evaporates some of the moisture,” Freeman says. “If you add dressing before they’re cool, they can get too soft. Then you’re stuck with mashed potato salad. I don’t know who wants that.”
The potato salad can, of course, accompany a traditional burger, hot dog, or anything you would feature at a summer cookout. For Freeman that means baked beans, collard greens and barbecued jack fruit — a vegan feast.
The following recipe is adapted from Shenarri Freeman of Cadence restaurant in Manhattan. 1 ½ pounds small red potatoes, cut into 1-inch pieces, if large
1 tablespoon vegetable oil 2 medium ribs celery, diced ½ small red onion, diced
¼ cup diced dill pickles 3 sprigs dill, chopped, plus more dill for garnish
2/3 cup vegan mayo, preferably soy free
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons lemon juice Salt
Paprika
Chopped chives, for garnish
Vegan Potato Salad
In a medium pot, cover the potatoes with water and add the oil. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to medium and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes. Drain and let cool, then refrigerate until cold and firm.
In a big bowl, combine the celery, red onion, pickles, fresh dill, mayo, mustard and lemon juice. Season with salt. Add the potatoes and stir gently to coat. Taste and adjust seasoning as necessary; garnish with the paprika and chives and a little more dill; and serve.
Makes 6 to 8 servings.