Classic trench-style raincoat usually khaki with a belt

Q I have a few questions about selecting a raincoat. What color would be the most universal? Tan looks good, but I’m not sure that color would be appropriate for dressy occasions. Also, what about cut, fit and fabric?

A For your most versatile and useful raincoat, do not think about a dark-colored one, such as navy or black. This is an instance where darker isn’t particularly more traditional or universal. Confine your selection to khaki or tan. And start your selection process in an absolutely topflight store, one that carries the Burberry line of coats.

Certainly, you may not decide to buy this Rolls Royce of coats. But trying one on will show you what the best looks and feels like, and will give you a reference point for judging other brands and models. An all-cotton, top-of-the-line Burberry trench coat — complete with its recognizable double-breasted cut, epaulets, belt, an impressive brass loop or two, and an optional button-in distinctive wool plaid liner — will cost a hefty amount (more than $2,000). Their single-breasted cut is a couple of hundred dollars less, but not quite as classic. Unfortunately, Burberrys seldom go on sale, because they never go out-of-style; that quality makes them a good investment. For the willing, knowledgeable and patient shopper, these coats can often be found for pennies on the dollar in gently-used/vintage clothing stores, better thrift shops, and always online at eBay and Poshmark.

For something less expensive, quality raincoats are also available from Mackintosh, London Fog, Moncler, Canada Goose, The North Face, Barbour and others.

If you plan to own more than one raincoat, you might consider buying one in a light tan or khaki color (a classic trench), and one in a dark color, such as navy. The trench would be full-length (a length that hovers somewhere around the knee) and the dark one could be the same length or a shorter, car-coat length, probably in a single-breasted cut. But most men get along quite nicely owning just one tan raincoat in the classic trench style. It will take you just about everywhere, even to a once-a-year black-tie affair.

Regarding fabric, many discuss raincoats in microfibers. If you are a regular reader, you know that I lean strongly toward the elegance of natural fibers and steer away from man-made substitutes … especially for clothes that you will be wearing for decades, as well as for the many situations and climate changes that travel can bring. As for cut, you have the option of either single- or double-breasted, whichever style you prefer. Often shorter men dislike the bulk of the double-breasted’s extra layer of fabric. Both cuts are correct and worn by well-dressed men.

I have heard people say that buying a raincoat one size smaller than one’s suit size will make for a better fit and a trimmer, less “frumpy” look. That is just a false, lazy approach to guessing at fit without actually seeing how you look in it. No coat should be bought without a full tryon. Wear a suit jacket under the coat to assure yourself of free movement and a comfortable fit. If a coat has a back vent, it should hang straight and closed when the coat is buttoned. Take advantage of the store’s three-way mirror to be certain. Coat manufacturers understand what they are doing; why assume you must make allowance for sizing? While the most likely correct size is the same as your suit size, rely on what looks and feels right, rather than on some preconceived number.

Incidentally, for added dash in a trench coat, current style continues to be that you knot the belt rather than slipping it through the buckle.