Now’s the time to buy wine as New Year’s nears

My dear reader, we have a problem. We now find ourselves in the early days of what I’m officially calling The Great Champagne Shortage (Don’t worry, we only have about three more years of it). As I’ve written before, a host of pandemic-related problems have befallen the Champagne market and, due to its time-intensive production process, we’re likely to not see Champagne’s production level return to normal levels for far, far too long.

So, what are we supposed to do just a few days before New Year’s Eve? Panicking won’t help things, though if there has been anything to panic about over the past two years, surely the scarcity of luxury grape juice is it.

Your best bet is to simply hit up your local wine shop and see what they have in stock. Here’s what I’ll be looking for on the shelves:

Champagne Pol Roger Brut Reserve ($50)

Pol Roger is perhaps my favorite of the major Champagne houses, and I try to always keep a few bottles of this in my fridge. Made in equal parts from the Champagne’s three most prominent grapes — pinot noir, pinot meunier and chardonnay — this has all of the toasty, yeasty, briochiness you could want while still having the power and finesse to stand on its own or against any food you might find yourself noshing on at 2 a.m. when your last party guest finally leaves.

Champagne Gaston Chiquet Brut Tradition ($55)

The wines of Gaston Chiquet have gained attention for their elegance and class, and this wine in particular always stands out as quintessentially “Champagne-y.” It’s bright and lemony without ever encroaching on shrill. Pair it with kettle-cooked potato chips and my friend Maggie’s black-eyed pea dip, and you’ve got the perfect start to a New Year’s Eve Party.

Champagne Louis Roederer Brut Premier ($65)

More famous for producing the ultra-luxurious Crystal, Champagne Louis Roederer’s entry-level wine is dominated by pinot noir and chardonnay and notes of yellow apples, fresh melon and honey. It’s all framed by a backbone of acidity that shows itself as something between a lightning bolt and a bow tie. Best of all, it pairs perfectly with Popeye’s.

Champagne Mousse Fils L’Or d’Eugene, ($55)

Perhaps the most challenging bottle to find on this list, I just couldn’t not include it. This was the wine that first began my love affair with Champagne, and I’d kick myself for not recommending it. Made in the blanc de noir style — meaning that it’s made entirely from red grapes — it shows an intensity and verve that I always love. Look for heady notes of green and red apple skins and pie crust.