Smothered chicken is a recipe for comfort
The word “smothering” doesn’t always have the best connotation. (See: relationships or preventing someone from breathing.) But when it comes to cooking, it’s something I crave when in need of solace. Basically a stovetop braise, smothering is a technique most often associated with chicken or pork — but can be used with other types of animal proteins as well as vegetables — where the braising liquid is thickened to form a luscious gravy. And that gravy is the true star of the dish.
“The gravy could be a meal on its own if you do it right,” chef and cookbook author Adrienne Cheatham says.
Smothering’s exact origins are unknown. The earliest reference I found in print is a recipe “To Smother Young Chickens” in Lettice Bryan’s “The Kentucky Housewife,” originally published in 1839. Some attribute it to Louisiana’s Cajun and Creole cuisines, where “etouffee” translates to “smothered.” In South Carolina’s Lowcountry, “stew chicken” is nearly identical to what others know as “smothered chicken.” I consider it a quintessential soul food dish and a staple of Southern cuisine at large, and regardless of what you call it or where it’s from, this much is certain: The dish is full of comfort.
Smothered Chicken
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 ¼ teaspoons fine salt, divided use, plus more to taste
1 teaspoon ground black pepper, plus more to taste
½ teaspoon garlic powder
½ teaspoon smoked paprika
3 pounds chicken leg quarters, patted dry (can substitute thighs and/or drumsticks)
2 medium yellow onions halved and thinly sliced
3 to 4 cloves garlic, minced or finely grated
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
½ cup dry white wine, such as pinot grigio (see note)
1 cup unsalted or low-sodium chicken stock
2 to 3 sprigs fresh thyme
In a large skillet over medium heat, heat the oil until shimmering.
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, mix 1 teaspoon of salt, the pepper, garlic powder and paprika until combined. Sprinkle the seasoning mixture all over the chicken.
Working in batches, if needed, so as to not overcrowd the pan, place the chicken in the skillet, skin side down, and sear until nicely browned, 5 to 8 minutes. Flip the chicken and cook on the other side until browned, about 5 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a platter or rimmed baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining chicken, if needed.
Add the onions and the remaining ¼ teaspoon of salt to the skillet and cook, stirring occasionally, until they start to brown, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring regularly, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Sprinkle the flour over the onions and cook, stirring regularly, until lightly browned, about 2 minutes.
Add the wine, scraping up any stuck-on bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the stock and thyme, stir to combine and bring to a simmer. Return the chicken and any accumulated juices to the skillet, partially cover, and cook, adjusting the heat as necessary to maintain a gentle simmer, until the chicken is fully cooked (an instant-read thermometer should register at least 165 degrees when inserted into the thickest part of the chicken without touching the bone) and tender, about 30 minutes. Taste, and season with salt and/ or pepper, as desired. Discard thyme sprigs and serve. Makes 4 to 6 servings. Note: If avoiding alcohol, use an equal amount of additional chicken stock and a splash of vinegar in place of the wine.