Section of Ozark trail perfect for ‘girls-only’ hike
“What is the best season to hike in Arkansas?” I hear this question often.
My answer: “All seasons.” Because each season offers its own special adventures.
However, when it comes to backpacking, I prefer the unobstructed views and crisp clean air of late fall or winter. So, when my girlfriend, Dalene Ketcher, recently invited me to join her friends on a backpacking trip, I dragged my backpack out of the shed before she changed her mind.
Her friends Linda Moore and Cindy Lee are planning to thru-hike the Ozark Highlands Trail (OHT) next spring. This outing was part of their ongoing training. They are avid backpackers. Linda recently completed the 800-mile Arizona Trail, and Cindy’s resumé includes a thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail. And with Dalene also on the list, I knew it would be a fun group.
The outing was originally meant to be a girls’ hike. However, I’d earned an honorary “one of the girls” membership by providing shuttle service for an earlier multi-day outing — with cold beers at the end.
First, we had to decide where we were going. The Buffalo River Trail, my fave, is the hiking jewel of the state. However, the twoplus hour drive, each way, was more time than the group wanted to spend on the road. Several other trails were tossed about before we settled on Section Three of the Ozark Highlands Trail, from Cherry Bend to Lick Branch. Tim Ernst, in his “Ozark Highlands Trail Guide,” calls it one of the more scenic sections of the trail. And at 20 miles, it checked many of the boxes for what makes a great hike.
We did choose to hike east to west so it would be a different experience for Linda and Cindy on their west to east thru-hike in the spring.
At 8 o’clock Dec. 15, we met at the Cherry Bend Trailhead, on Arkansas 23, aka the Pig Trail. We left Cindy’s vehicle and drove Dalene’s car to the Lick Branch Trailhead to begin our hike. On the shuttle over, Linda was discussing how Lick Branch would be a great place to mail a supply drop for their thru-hike. Her friend Dana Phillips used to live near the trailhead, but Linda wasn’t sure where her house was or if she was still there.
As we made the turn onto a narrow gravel road that led to the trailhead, she sensed this was where her friend had lived. When we saw a lady working in a garden, we pulled so Linda could ask about Dana.
“Yes,” the lady politely replied. “Dana is my daughter. She lives right across the road.”
What were the odds? This was one of two “small world” coincidences our group encountered.
The lady gave Linda her own contact information and offered her own home as a supply drop if Dana’s wasn’t available.
THE BACKPACK BEGINS
It was a great day to be outdoors. Temperatures were in the lower 50s, and the morning cloud cover had dissipated, exposing patches of deep blue sky.
Leaving the trailhead, we followed the trail as it gradually worked its way up the hillside. At one point we followed a long rock ledge before turning through a break in the wall that routed us atop the ledge. I’m sure Tim Ernst and his trail-building crew were pleased to find this secret passage to circumvent the 10-foot bluff ledge.
The path leveled off to weave through a tall stand of pines with sweeping views into the Lick Branch drainage below. The next stretch of the trail was a leisurely walk in the woods.
This was a very educational experience, hiking with an all-female group. During their trail talk I was brought up to date on the current drama of one of the “Real Housewives” shows. I also learned where to find the best flea markets to buy retro merch. Along with which sports bra offers the best comfort, and yet provides the support active women need. And then there was the discussion about women’s’ boyshorts that I was afraid to admit I didn’t understand.
‘HIDDEN’ BRIDGE
As I continued to eavesdrop, we climbed Briar Ridge to cross a jeep road and then drop into the Marinoni Scenic Area. Ernst named the area after Paul A. Marinoni, a longtime resident of Fayetteville who taught him to appreciate the outdoors.
The trail flows along the canyon floor bordered by sheer rock bluffs. Just before entering the bluff area, it passes a picturesque natural rock bridge that most hikers don’t notice. It is high up the hillside and blocked by leaves for most of the year. Viewing it during leaf-off, it’s difficult to believe hikers do not see it. But I have hiked there when the trees are filled with leaves. It is easy to miss.
We dropped our packs to scramble up the hill and then maneuver across a narrow rock ledge to reach the arch. It is a relatively large opening under the slab of rock that spans the gap between the hillside and the remaining stone column.
Continuing to wind our way down the canyon we crossed Briar Creek several times. Just as the trail veered up a small grade away from the drainage, it passed a well-established campsite. With nearby pools of fresh water, it was very inviting. But we had more miles to cover before ending our day.
We climbed another hill before descending to Indian Creek. Most times I’ve been through, it has been a wet crossing. But we were able to rock-hop across the drainage before making ourselves comfortable on the opposite bank to enjoy a lunch break.
ONE WITH NATURE
Our destination for the day was the next hollow to the west, Herrods Creek. Cobb Ridge was the only thing separating us from our campsite for the night. As we sat beside the creek, the tall ridge was an intimidating obstacle. But we were enjoying one another’s company, and with plenty of daylight remaining, we lingered after our meal.
It was a long trek over the mountain. On level or downhill terrain, hikers can pretty much stay together. But climbing a long, steep grade can be a challenge. Most hikers prefer to hike uphill at their own pace, then regroup at the top. Shortly into the climb our party was scattered across the hillside.
This scenic stretch of trail offered panoramic views into the deep hollow of Indian Creek. We passed through a forest of beech trees. In the silence I could hear the dry leaves rustling in the breeze. It was an ideal environment for deep reflection. Or to think of nothing at all and become one with nature.
Regrouping at the top of the climb we remained together on the downhill hike to Herrods Creek, our home for the night. Once again, what in the past has been a wet crossing was now dry. With a forecast of overnight rain, we crossed the creek to set up our tents.
It was another readymade campsite, with highback rock seats encircling the fire ring. It wasn’t long before everyone had their cozy dwelling assembled and we were lounging around a blazing fire, sharing stories and sipping an adult beverage.
True to the forecast, tiny drops of rain began to fall. We tucked our knees under our raincoats and continued to enjoy the evening. Eventually the raindrops grew larger and more frequent. The dry tent beckoned, and we answered its call.
Within an hour the rain stopped long enough for everyone to crawl out of their tent to prepare dinner and socialize. But the rain returned, and it was back in the tent to cuddle up in my sleeping bag and turn on my e-reader. With raindrops gently tapping on the rainfly, it wasn’t long before I drifted off into a deep, relaxing slumber.
DAY TWO
The rain had ended by morning. We enjoyed a hearty, warm breakfast and hot cup of coffee before resuming the hike. At first the trail paralleled a small creek. Soon, there was a blue trail marker nailed to a tree directing hikers to a point of interest. We followed the spur trail a couple of hundred feet to see layers of beautiful moss-covered ledges with dozens of tiny streams of water pouring over the edges. I have seen it with more water, but if it had not been for the night’s rain, it would probably have been dry. Gifted again.
This waterfall was Ernst’s first photo to be published by National Geographic.
We passed several more waterfalls in the next two miles. The flow diminished the farther we progressed up the hill. But each site was still uniquely beautiful.
As on the first day’s uphill climb, our merry band of hikers began to drift apart. Stopping for pictures and to take notes, I was soon alone. With the damp, leaf-covered forest floor softening most sounds, the silence was even more pronounced than before. The shrill call of a distant pileated woodpecker punctuated the silence to echo across the hollow.
OOPS
When one of our group missed a trail sign for a turn, she had an adventure of her own. I don’t want to embarrass her by mentioning her name, so I will just refer to her as C.L.
Continuing to follow an abandoned jeep trail, with each step she walked farther from the Ozark Highlands Trail and her friends. Finally, not necessarily lost, just not knowing exactly where she was, she came across an old camper nestled in the trees alongside a gravel road. Knocking on the door, she experienced lucky “small world” coincidence No. 2.
The man who came to the door was Matt Graham. He was her automobile mechanic at a dealership where she used to have her car serviced.
Matt proved to a true “trail angel.” He loaded C.L. and her gear in his vehicle for a ride to Morgan Field Trailhead, which we just happened to be hiking past at that very minute. We were reunited, and all was well.
We resumed our hike to the highest point on the trail, Hare Mountain. As we crossed the backbone of the ridge we were engulfed in clouds. Although we missed the panoramic views the elevation normally offers, it was a mystical experience to walk within a cloud.
As we dropped down the mountain, the clouds lifted. We finished our adventure with an easy, uneventful, downhill trek to the trailhead. Arriving at the vehicle we toasted the “girls’ hike” with PBRs and promised there would be outings. I must have passed the test because they announced I was officially “one of the girls.”
Bob Robinson of Fort Smith is the author of “Bicycling Guide to the Mississippi River Trail,” “Bicycling Guide to Route 66” and “Bicycling Guide to the Lake Michigan Trail.”