Soccer star gets kick out of Belize
Just as I was an expert picnicker as a young backpacker, I’m now an older backpacker — who is packing a little extra taste and money — so I find myself seeking out “foodie” meals these days. For those of us who are no longer a fillyour-tank type of traveler, Lisbon is a great foodie destination. Perched on the sunny Atlantic coast of Portugal, it’s a ramshackle but charming city proud of its tasty delicacies and heavenly wines.
One of Lisbon’s recent claims to foodie fame is the transformation of its traditional farmers market into a gourmet food circus. The Mercado da Ribeira is the place to join the young, trendy and hungry crowd grazing among a wide variety of options and then convening at communal tables in the center.
This venerable market survives in one half of the industrial-age, iron-andglass market hall, while the other half has been taken over by Time Out magazine, which invited a couple dozen quality restaurants to open stalls here (I resist calling this historic market by its new commercialized name, Time Out Market). Five big-name Lisbon chefs run a row of stalls, serving fine fish and steak sandwiches, fresh seafood, pastries and Portuguese-Italian ice cream. Wine and beer take over separate stalls in the center. I even found affordable
Soccer fans know Becky Sauerbrunn as the captain of the National Women’s Soccer League’s FC Kansas City. She is also the cocaptain of the United States National Team and will be competing in her second Olympic Games this summer in Brazil. She splits her time between Missouri and Oregon, where she resides when she’s not playing for FC Kansas City. Asked where she’d like to visit after the Olympics are over, Sauerbrunn, 31, said, “New Zealand. I’ve never had a big enough chunk of time to travel that far and have enough time to really experience the country. My boyfriend and I are planning on traveling for a year after I retire from soccer, and New Zealand is definitely on the list.” An edited version of our conversation follows. Most people will never get to watch the Olympics live, much less compete in them. What was it like for you to be in London representing the United States in 2012, and then winning gold?
It was fantastic! I’m such a fan of the English Premier League, and it was amazing to get to play in those iconic stadiums, where I’ve watched the best soccer players in the world play. And then to win a gold medal, it doesn’t even feel real. I got to represent my country on the world stage and get to call myself an Olympic gold medalist. Do you anticipate getting “percebes” (barnacles) at several seafood stalls. The food here is unique, and the energy is palpable.
At a trendy food circus like this, eating on disposable plates and at long, noisy picnic tables is far from romantic, but the quality and prices are unbeatable. The nearby “Pink Street” (Rua Nova do Carvalho), lined with clubs and bars, is lively late and just two blocks inland, making Mercado da Ribeira a perfect stop before an evening stroll through Lisbon’s nightlife.
In addition to this trendy market scene, Lisbon offers foodies wine-bar “picnics.”
Qto do any sightseeing at the Rio Games?
There won’t be a lot of time! We play in stadiums all around Brazil and won’t be in Rio until the end of the tournament, if all goes well. If I have some time, however, I would like to see the National Library of Brazil. It’s one of the largest libraries in the world. What is your favorite vacation destination?
My boyfriend and I really enjoy traveling to Central America. Central America offers destinations that are relatively close and that offer attractions that we enjoy. We like to travel off the beaten path. We stayed in Placencia, a small fishing village in the south of Belize, and had an absolute blast. I’d recommend visiting the Mayan ruins of Lubaantun. We did several hikes around the ruins, one involving swimming through a cave and climbing waterfalls. What untapped destination should people know about?
We recently traveled to Panama and stayed in a tree hut on Bocas del Toro. It was a wonderful combination of feeling like you were the only people on earth and knowing that civilization was only a It’s an easy and affordable way to pick up some delightful plates of fine cheeses, meats and seafood to match the local wine and port. Wine bars are popular all over Mediterranean Europe. For about $20 per head, you can eat well in style, and learn about local cuisine.
On my recent visit to this salty seaside capital, I discovered the classy Lisbon Winery wine bar. This casual little spot has a passion for the best Portuguese wines, cheeses and meats. My charming waitress, Adriana, thoughtfully explained an artful arrangement of finger food served short bike ride away. What are your favorite restaurants?
One of the best things about traveling is the food. We try to do some research on restaurants or food carts people rate highly. On our trip to Lubaantun in Belize, we drove past a house with a sign that read Coleman’s Cafe. It was the best Caribbean food we have ever had. Meat melting off the bone, rice and beans, and the best fried plantains I imagine I’ll ever have, all served buffet-style out of a family’s kitchen. What is your guilty pleasure when you’re on the road?
I’m on the hunt for the world’s best mojito. Currently, Puerto Rico is winning the contest. What is your best and/or worst vacation memory?
Worst experience was our return flight from Panama to the States. We hit a flock of birds on our ascent and it blew out the engine. We had to do an emergency landing back at the Panamanian airport. Best experience was the cave swimming in Belize. All we had for safety were headlamps, no flotation devices or anything. on a sleek wooden slab — the perfect presentation for a modern gourmet experience. It was sightseeing for my taste buds, as she walked me through rich olive oils, smooth wine, creamy sheep’s milk cheese and spiced sausage. Along with its quality local cuisine, this wine bar has cork walls, a 500-year-old cistern under glass flooring and traditional “fado” music playing in the background; it’s a perfect storm of Portuguese culture.
After savoring the specialties at Lisbon Winery, I headed two blocks away to a friendly new bakery that serves the favorite local custard pie. Manteigaria Fabrica de Pasteis de Nata is simply the best place in town for “pastels de nata” — a tasty pie that’s a cheap capper to a “foodie’s picnic.” The key here: They only serve one treat and constantly churn the lovable little pies — and they must be eaten “hot-out-ofthe-oven.” Watching their bustling little kitchen is a treat in itself.
Foodie culture can be intimidating to navigate alone. Several Lisbon companies offer three- to fourhour tours that introduce aspiring foodies to Portuguese culture while filling your stomach at the same time. These groups are small, the teaching is great, and — when you figure in the cost of the meal — the tours are a solid value. Inside Lisbon leads travelers through five to six short, tasty and memorable stand-up stops and offers another walking-andeating tour that ends with a ferry ride across the bay to sample seafood. My recent food tour treated me to “bacalhau,” dried and salted cod that’s served a reputed 365 different ways, and “carne de porco a Alentejana” — an interesting combination of pork and clams — one of Portugal’s unique contributions to world cuisine.
I love how Europeans embrace their food culture with such expertise, passion and abandon. After a busy day showing me Lisbon’s delights, my Portuguese guide, Alex, shared what she calls “heaven in a glass” — a 55-year-old white port wine. As she swirled the amber aperitif in her glass, a proud smile swept across her face. This is the kind of pure cultural joy we experience as we get to know different lands and different people. Finally taking a sip, Alex sighed, “A vida e boa.” Life is good. Rick Steves (rick steves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at steves.com, and follow his blog on Facebook.