A delicious forary into the fare of Argentina
Latest Foreman-Wolf venture offers nuanced South American dishes
Over the years, Tony Foreman and Cindy Wolf have created some spectacular restaurants from scratch — Charleston, Petit Louis and Cinghiale, to name a few.
For their latest venture, they refashioned one of their showcase places, Pazo in Harbor East, into a sexy Argentine restaurant called Bar Vasquez.
It’s is an ode to Wolf’s mentor, chef Marcelo Vasquez, who was born in Argentina.
“He was a giant influence for her,” Foreman said. “It shows an appreciation of her love for Argentina.”
The soaring space — once a warehouse dating to the 1880s — hasn’t changed structurally since it was gutted and transformed into Pazo in 2004. But the interior has been treated to some fancy new duds, including art, furnishings and light fixtures.
“People were ready for something new,” Foreman said of the space. “It’s more soothing and sophisticated.”
There is still a lounge with couches and a casual dining space on the lower level. Upstairs is more formal, with the scrolled wrought-iron railing allowing views of the action below.
The biggest change is a stage on the first floor, featuring acts like a classical flamenco guitarist and a tango trio. The music is lively, but it doesn’t overwhelm conversations.
Another change is that the food is focused on a different continent. Before Pazo closed in August, it was serving Southern Italian cuisine.
Chef Mario Cano Catalan has set his sights on South American cooking, with meats cooked over a wood fire and fare like empanadas, pastas and pizzas representing Argentina’s rich history of European settlers.
But Bar Vasquez isn’t a churrascaria, an all-you-can-eat Brazilian steakhouse, with servers dressed like gaucho cowboys delivering skewers of sizzling protein. The dishes are more thoughtful and nuanced, with plenty of fish and vegetables to satisfy all appetites.
And there’s nary a colorful kerchief tied around servers’ necks. They wear attractive gray suits befitting the impeccable training and professionalism the Foreman Wolf restaurant group instills in its service corps.
On our visit, our waitress was perceptive and knowledgeable about the intricacies of the menu. She was at the table when we needed her, but she didn’t hover during our dinner.
The house-made rustic hazelnut bread was a great start, especially served with a Malbec reduction butter. Our meal really kicked into gear with the appetizers.
A fluke ceviche featured delicate slices of fish draped with a spicy grapefruit sauce and finished with avocado, basil and fennel. And the wood-grilled veal tongue was a table favorite. Ruby rounds of tender meat were dressed with a traditional Argentine sauce that includes tomato, vinegar and oil, partnered with caramelized cauliflower and an herb salad for a dynamic dish.
We tried two of the empanadas, the beef and chicken, and both were appealing snacks with their bronze crusts and piquant fillings.
We really liked that Bar Vasquez’s menu allows diners to decide how they want to develop a meal. You can feast casually on dishes like empanadas, soups and pizzas, or go for a multicourse dinner.
It’s no surprise to find housemade pastas on the menu, given Argentina’s large Italian population. They are offered in small or large portions. We found the appetizer serving was plenty for us as a main dish.
The maccheroni we sampled was simple and heavenly. Soft macaroni embraced chanterelle mushrooms, spinach, garlic and chilies with a healthy dose of Parmesan cheese.
The meats are grilled — there’s a slight smokiness in the air — and come with a choice of salsa. Our 10-ounce filet mignon, a grass-fed hunk of wonderful meat from a ranch in Uruguay, was plump and juicy. We paired it with an herbrich
Bar Vasquez
1425 Aliceanna St., Harbor East Contact: 410-534-7296, barvasquez.com
5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 5 p.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday (kitchen closes at 11 p.m.).
Appetizers, $6-$18; entrees, $32-$79. Food: Argentine Noise/TVs: Moderate; no TVs Service: Our pleasant server was knowledgeable about the cuisine. Valet and street parking
Can accommodate. Reservation policy: ★★★; ★★★★; ★★; ★★★★★; chimichurri that boosted the beef. The plate didn’t come with sides, so we bolstered it with a big bowl of crispy french fries, served with a wonderful Malbec aioli (even if the pink color is offputting) and wilted spinach laced with lemon and garlic.
If you’re feeling really adventuresome, try the restaurant’s mixed grill — 30 ounces of meat for $78. We didn’t indulge, but it sounded intriguing: a 24-ounce bone-in rib steak, sweetbreads, pork sausage and morcilla (a variation of blood sausage).
We also enjoyed roasted cod, a great plug of fish on a tomatoonion pepper sauce and sprinkled with caramelized fennel.
The sweet side of the menu is just as impressive as the savory side. Pastry chef Michael Brown is creating spectacular desserts.
The poached pear in wine was elegant with cinnamon ice cream, a honey crumble, candied walnuts and a subtle caramel glaze.
We also liked the baked goat’s milk cheesecake with quince jelly and crowned with pistachio toffee and candied pistachios.
The Foreman Wolf restaurants are known for their thoughtful wine selections, and Bar Vasquez is no different. The number of offerings can be overwhelming, but the house sommelier is a great resource. There are also recommendations from wine aficionado Foreman on the menu, like the two Malbecs from Mendoza, Argentina, that were listed the night we were there.
Wolf’s mentor would be proud of his namesake, and Baltimore should be, too. Bar Vasquez gives us more bragging rights as a food town.