Please stay weird, Austin
Texas capital is about more than SXSW
AUSTIN, Texas — We have a harbinger of spring in this capital city — and it’s not the famous cobalt-blue wildflowers that pop up along highways and in yards.
It’s a guy in a flesh-toned G-string, the one who shamelessly rides his cruiser bike through parks, and shops brazenly, thus clothed, in our neighborhood grocery store. I think I’ve seen him walking his cat on a leash, too, though I admit to averting my eyes, so I can’t say for sure.
Yep. Austin relishes its opportunities to live up to its free-for-interpretation, unofficial motto: Keep Austin Weird. Don’t come here expecting lean cowboys in tall hats, tumbleweeds, horses tied up in front of saloons (seriously, I’ve been asked about that), knock-you-down drawls and side-byside barbecue grills afire. Rather, this blue town in a red state, home to the immense University of Texas and the prodigious State Capitol, always has been a little uppity.
We have a nude beach on a lake, as well as the biggest urban bat colony in North America. The latter draws crowds of bystanders at dusk, April through October, to see 1.5 million Mexican free-tailed bats fly out from downtown’s Ann W. Richards Congress Avenue Bridge like an infinitesimal swath of black velvet. We have a dive bar, The Little Longhorn Saloon, where cheerful, live chickens play an instrumental role in the venue’s infamous “chicken s---” bingo drinking game.
A metropolis of roughly 1 million that manages to maintain a village vibe, Austin sits amid man-made lakes, flanked by hilly, oak-dotted, peach orchard-rich wine country. It harbors hippies, hip-hoppers, hipsters and homebodies. It shelters IT whiz kids, diverse ethnic and religious groups, fitness buffs, carnivores, vegans and intellectuals.
The birthplace of Dell Computers, Whole Foods and HomeAway, the city also embraces all sorts of artists, from filmmakers and writers to ballet dancers. Austin gets most of its arts-centric kudos for its roisterous live-music scene, touted to be among the biggest and best in the world.
While that musical reputation draws hordes twice a year for its largest festivals (Austin City Limits in the fall and South by Southwest, running March 10-19 this year), the city trills year-round at more than 250 venues. You’ll find talented musicians performing from corners in the airport to the stages of long-established juke joints, like the iconic Continental Club on South Congress Avenue. Even the hotels, such as Kimpton’s Van Zandt and Westin Austin Downtown, sport musical themes. At Four Seasons Austin, you can take advantage of a loaner guitar to strum in the privacy of your waterside suite — or do riffs outside on the banks of Lady Bird Lake while watching the bats emerge from the adjacent bridge.
Creative buzz manifests in the city’s robust culinary culture too. Highbrow and simple, edgy and sublime, affordable and extravagant — all types of eateries hold place cards here. Old-school Tex-Mex cafes, drugstores that flip hamburgers and barbecue joints with blackened ceilings represent the old guard. The sleek, contemporary cool kids, many helmed by James Beard Award winners, vaunt Austin’s worldly side.
Stalwarts such as Fonda San Miguel (a temple of interior Mexican cookery) and Tyson Cole’s highly lauded, Japaneseinspired Uchi remain constants; while casual outposts like chef Drew Curren’s 24 Diner and Irene’s (a hip take on truck-stop cuisine) satisfy with seasonal, innovative fare. A couple of thousand food trucks and trailers dot the cityscape to feed the latenight set.
Worth the wait in its notorious line, Franklin Barbecue garnered the brisketmaking chef/owner, Aaron Franklin, a James Beard Award for his succulent beef. Mark your calendar for May 18-21 for the first ever Hot Luck festival, a food-tasting extravaganza featuring 35 chefs and live music, organized, in part, by Franklin.
Want to try something brand new? “Top Chef ” Season 9 winner — and yet another James Beard veteran — Paul Qui opened Kuneho in January on the East Side. Embodying his well-known capricious fusion, the small plates menu offers astonishing dishes (think: trout roe migas and rabbit hand pies) in tony, Zen-style quarters.
For an adult beverage downtown, step into Garage. Ensconced in an actual parking garage, this cozy speak-easy has no shortage of vintage appeal. Try the award-winning Indian Paintbrush, a concoction that includes locally made Dripping Springs vodka, grapefruit juice and Peychaud’s bitters, while noshing small bites by local favorite Philip Speer.
On the East Side, Whisler’s is a cool enough destination. Upstairs, Mezcaleria Tobala pours from its mind-boggling collection of mezcal; tipple from clay copitas while listening to Spanish guitar riffs.
Near campus, tuck into Freedmen’s for a Holy Mary cocktail: a mix of whiskey and smoked tomato, garnished with a slab of brisket, pork rib and sausage.
Austin’s athletics-obsessed denizens offset their gourmand habits in a variety of ways. Swimmers can stroke through long laps at historic Barton Springs, a spring-fed pool that stretches for an eighth of a mile and boasts its own (rarely seen) endangered species, an albino salamander. For power walkers and joggers, kayakers and stand-up paddle board aficionados, downtown’s Lady Bird Lake and the trail girding its waters beckon. The bike shop Mellow Johnny’s (co-owned by Lance Armstrong) offers bike rentals and organized rides.
If you want to explore beyond downtown, Lake Austin Spa Resort recently launched a water taxi to whisk wellness devotees to its expansive Texas Hill Country retreat for an indulgent massage, fitness class or overnight stay.
A wonderfully weird city that defies being put in a box, Austin welcomes you to try.