Baltimore Sun Sunday

Local chefs find success in California

-

as Paramount Pictures and Fox Studios are nearby.

Inspired by the city’s diverse ethnicitie­s, cultures and industries, Voltaggio has coined the food at ink. and the ambience as “Modern Los Angeles” — where the Getty Museum, Rodeo Drive and the lush Hollywood Hills all beckon.

Fresh and organic ingredient­s drive his food ambitions, as he aims to create a multisenso­ry experience. “The produce here in California is some of the best in the world,” he said.

In a region whose dynamic dining scene ranges from food trucks to groundbrea­king chefs like Wolgang Puck and Alice Waters, his menu changes seasonally. A recent peek revealed fare that critics have praised as “playful,” “visually stunning” and “flawlessly executed.” Think kale pasta with kale pesto, pecorino and pumpkin seeds, or Baja sea bass with uni butter and a mushroom pancake.

The 38-year-old chef launched his culinary career in high school, working for his older brother, chef Bryan Voltaggio, at a hotel kitchen in their hometown. By 19, he’d landed a prestigiou­s apprentice­ship at the Greenbrier in West Virginia. He went on to four-star restaurant­s such as The Bazaar by José Andrés in Beverly Hills.

Voltaggio’s artisanal sandwich concept, Sack Sandwiches, is situated in the same complex as ink., but has its own space.

Customers can munch on 4-inch-thick sammies that are unique yet familiar: cold fried chicken, a Vietnamese banh mi, or a take on a Spanish omelet. House-made spicy “crab” potato chips are on the menu, too. Hungry air travelers can find a smaller sandwich outpost — ink. sack — inside the Los Angeles Internatio­nal (LAX) airport.

Along the way, Voltaggio has gained fame on “Top Chef” (Season 6 competitor­s in 2009 included his brother) and hosted the Travel Channel series “Breaking Borders.” In 2013, he was recognized as one of Food & Wine’s Best New Chefs.

“I’m 100 percent about the food. Being a chef is not about being a TV star — although there are privileges,” he said.

 ?? AMY DAVIS/BALTIMORE SUN ?? Duff Goldman, founder of Charm City Cakes, has had a bakery in Los Angeles since 2012. “I love it, man. L.A.’s really fantastic. We get to do everything on a bigger stage,” he said.
AMY DAVIS/BALTIMORE SUN Duff Goldman, founder of Charm City Cakes, has had a bakery in Los Angeles since 2012. “I love it, man. L.A.’s really fantastic. We get to do everything on a bigger stage,” he said.
 ?? OLGA KUBRAK PHOTOGRAPH­Y ?? Ryan Coffey is chef at Twenty/20 Restaurant in Carlsbad, Calif.
OLGA KUBRAK PHOTOGRAPH­Y Ryan Coffey is chef at Twenty/20 Restaurant in Carlsbad, Calif.
 ?? BOBBY KIM/THE HUNDREDS ?? Chef Michael Voltaggio is from Frederick and is a Food Channel star.
BOBBY KIM/THE HUNDREDS Chef Michael Voltaggio is from Frederick and is a Food Channel star.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United States