The up-and-coming chef

Coffey grew up outside Philadelphia and took a circuitous path to cooking.

The 28-year-old chef spent time as an assistant football coach at Delaware State University before finding his passion. He wound up in Baltimore, studying the culinary and hospitality industry at what’s now Stratford University.

After plying his craft in kitchens from Baltimore and Delaware to Palm Springs, he landed his latest position in 2016 at Twenty/20 Grill at the Sheraton Carlsbad Resort & Spa, a sophisticated property with Mediterranean flair. The airy restaurant includes al fresco patio dining with a fireplace where patrons can enjoy sweeping views of the Carlsbad coast.

“One reason I wound up here is that my wife is a native Californian and she wanted to come back home,” said Coffey. “As they say: happy wife, happy life. But I’ve fallen in love with the region too.”

Carlsbad, in San Diego County, is a city of verdant rolling hills, expansive beaches, freshwater lagoons and salty ocean air. Visitors will find extensive nature trails, flower fields and farmer’s markets.

Coffey has embraced his love for seafood and created inroads with local farmers. “They’re sometimes surprised when I come out into the fields. I want to bring the freshest, locally sourced ingredients to our signature dishes.”

The menu (which changes every few months) boasts dishes that run the gamut from free-range chicken with goat cheese polenta, shaved Brussels sprouts and heirloom Twenty/20 Grill at Sheraton Carlsbad: carrots, to braised lamb rigatoni with local mushrooms.

For brunch, there’s an eggs benedict sandwich called “The Baltimore,” made with jumbo lump Gulf crab and Old Bay hollandaise.

“You can’t be a chef in Maryland and not know how to make a good crabcake,” said Coffey. When California diners learn he’s from the Old Line State, they often chat him up about the popular dish, which occasionally pops up on the menu.

Coffey, who knows Baltimore puritans often scoff at seafood from beyond local waters, notes that he’s working on having Maryland crabmeat shipped to the restaurant. “Only when it’s in season,” he adds. He’s constantly trying new dishes and trying to learn from other pros, with an aim of someday launching his own restaurant.

Beyond the meals, the chef — who still has a house in Baltimore near the Hollins Market — has brought other memories of Maryland to California. “I keep my Orioles cap in my back pocket. When I wear it, it’s always a crowd pleaser.”