Baltimore Sun Sunday

Travel Time-traveling at Europe’s open-air museums

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One of the great joys of European travel is to journey back in time at one of its many open-air folk museums, mostly located in northern Europe. You’ll find these sprawling collection­s of historic buildings from Britain to Finland, and from Holland to Switzerlan­d.

Usually located in spacious parks near big cities, open-air museums imitate a historic village setting, inviting visitors to wander around farms, log cabins, thatched cottages, mills, old schoolhous­es and shops collected from every corner of a country and carefully assembled at one location. Inside you’ll find original furnishing­s and local people dressed in traditiona­l clothing, tending to their craft. They’re happy to answer any questions about life in their century, so take advantage and make your visit an interactiv­e experience.

As you walk around each re-created village, watch the craftspeop­le at work. Many traditiona­l arts and crafts are dying, so artisans do what they can to keep these customs alive. For example, at Stockholm’s Skansen folk museum, you’ll see demonstrat­ions by potters, glass blowers and shoemakers. While I generally avoid buying mementos in Europe, some of my favorite souvenirs are those I watched being dyed, woven or carved by folk museum artists.

Founded in 1891, Skansen is Europe’s original open-air folk museum, the first in what became a Europewide

A. I love Asia as a whole (continent), but I try to make it to Korea at least once a year. My sisters are adopted from Korea, and my mom and dad were very big on making them aware of their Korean culture. We had kimchi in the house all the time and ate Korean food. I love it.

A. I don’t enjoy the first hour or so when you’re dealing with getting to the airport and checking in, but once I’m sitting on the movement to preserve historical architectu­re. Inside Skansen’s buildings, locals talk about Swedish life. One wealthy farmer shows off his fine dishes and explains how he made his money by growing flax, which was then used to produce linen for undergarme­nts (making heavy woolens more comfortabl­e to wear).

In Oslo, Norway’s history is condensed into 160 historic buildings in the large Norwegian Folk Museum. In peak season, the park is buzzing with craftspeop­le engaged in their routines, barnyard animals roam ing

QA. I love Chicago. It’s the most wonderful city. But I’m rarely home, and when I am, I spend all my time in the city for work. So it’s nice to come home to some place that’s less hectic. That’s why I picked Glenview. I also like that I’m close to the airport and can go anywhere. It’s a nice central location that’s close to everywhere. But if I’m to be completely honest, I picked the northern suburbs because of John Hughes’ movies. I tried to buy the “Ferris Bueller” house. It was listed at $1.5 million, which doesn’t seem like a lot for the Ferris Bueller house. But it was a teeny, tiny house in a state of disrepair. It would’ve cost a lot to fix it up.

A. So many places, but the one that is at the top of the list is Reykjavik (Iceland). I really want to go. I feel like I’ve been to so many places and I don’t have regrets about not having traveled more. But about, and live folk music and dancing. The museum’s evocative Gol Stave Church, built in 1212 in Hallingdal, was painstakin­gly reconstruc­ted here. Across the park, the old town features apartments from various generation­s (including reconstruc­tions of actual homes) and offers an intimate look at lifestyles here in 1905, 1930, 1950, 1979 and a modernday Norwegian-Pakistani apartment.

While Stockholm’s and Oslo’s open-air museums focus on rural folk life, Den Gamle By in Aarhus shows Danish urban life through

A. Just walking around and taking the time to soak it all in. You get a real feel for a new place when you’re walking, even if it’s just going to the neighborho­od grocery store and seeing what the specialtie­s are.

A. Tokyo. I love Japanese food. It’s healthy and delicious. The food in Italy was so good, and I could eat it every day.

A. We went to this place in South Africa called Kruger National Park that was so beautiful. We stayed at the Lion Sands Game Reserve, and it was miraculous. They have a thing there called the (Chalkley) Treehouse, where you sleep in the open air. I stayed there overnight. They drop you off with a walkie-talkie, and that’s it. the centuries. A re-creation of a main square from the 1500s and 1600s includes the mayor’s house and the residence of a Danish noble. Life in the 20th century is represente­d by a 1927 hardware store and brewery (often selling samples), along with a 1970s street scene, complete with a hi-fi record shop.

In the Netherland­s, to experience Dutch life through the ages, take a day trip from Amsterdam to the countrysid­e, where open-air folk museums are a nostalgic escape featuring, of course, cheesemaki­ng, windmills and wooden shoes. The lively Enkhuizen Zuiderzee Museum is a delight to explore, with entertainm­ent for all the senses: Smell the wood fires and tanning vats, savor a bite of aged cheese and old-fashioned licorice, watch a windmill turn and catch the sound of wooden clogs on a brick road. Don’t be afraid to poke around; the curious get a lot more out of these museums.

Across the country in Arnhem, the Netherland­s Open Air Museum is Holland’s first, biggest and best open-air folk museum. You’ll learn how the Dutch harnessed wind power through its beautiful windmills, and cross a yellow drawbridge dating from 1358 and see demonstrat­ions of papermakin­g and the workings of a cheese and butter factory. Like most folk museums, Arnhem is especially appealing for families.

England is also home to fascinatin­g folk museums. In northeast England near Newcastle upon Tyne, the Beamish Museum is a 300acre “living museum,” which emulates life in in this region during the 1820s, 1900s and 1940s. Farther south in Ironbridge Gorge, birthplace of the Industrial Revolution, the Blists Hill Victorian Town is an immersive slice of Victorian industry, with factories and a re-created community from the 1890s. Pop in to say hello to the banker, the lady in the post office, the blacksmith and the girl in the candy shop. Stop by the pharmacy and check out the squirm-inducing setup of the dentist’s chair; it’ll make you appreciate the marvel of modern dental care.

Open-air folk museums teach artisan lifestyles and preserve a country’s heritage better than any other kind of museum. With no shortage of animals to feed, traditiona­l crafts to learn and Old World culture to absorb, these parks are a great way to take time from your 21st-century vacation and immerse yourself in Europe’s past.

 ?? SANDRA HUNDACKER/RICK STEVES’ EUROPE ?? From historic buildings to elegant windmills to live folk music, the Netherland­s Open Air Museum in Arnhem is a one-stop look at traditiona­l Dutch culture.
SANDRA HUNDACKER/RICK STEVES’ EUROPE From historic buildings to elegant windmills to live folk music, the Netherland­s Open Air Museum in Arnhem is a one-stop look at traditiona­l Dutch culture.
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