History, nature, culture elevated in visit to Alps
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The Alps, Europe’s highest mountain range, arc from Vienna to Marseilles, France. They include stretches in eight countries, each with a unique taste of alpine culture.
Of the 750 miles of peaks, the Swiss Alps are a traveler’s alpine dream come true. With majestic snow-capped summits, waterfall-laced cliffs and picturesque lakes, they have hiker-friendly amenities: well-marked trails, restful mountain huts and a system of lifts and trains that drop you off at the top.
The Swiss, who are both great engineers and nature lovers, know how to make alpine thrills accessible to almost everyone.
My favorite region in the Swiss Alps is the Berner Oberland, south of Bern and crowned by a trio of formidable peaks: the Eiger, Moench and Jungfrau. A good, easy hike is along the Maennlichen and Kleine Scheidegg ridges, which separate the Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen valleys. I recommend taking the mountain train from Lauterbrunnen up to the town of Wengen, then a gondola to Maennlichen. From there, the trail winds gently downhill past mountain views, contented cows, a perfect picnic spot and a fine restaurant.
Former NFL player Akbar Gbajabiamila is the co-host of NBC’s obstaclecourse competition series, “American Ninja Warrior.” An avid traveler, Gbajabiamila says he prepares for overseas trips by researching “language for key phrases, history and what the locals enjoy. Of course, I have my top touristy stuff to do, but that’s at the bottom of the list.”
An edited version of our conversation follows.
Q. What’s the most important thing you’ve learned from traveling?
A. From the 40 countries I’ve traveled to, I’ve learned that we are all more alike than we are not. At the core of every human being I’ve encountered in my travels, I wholeheartedly believe that we all just want to matter. That’s why I believe God created communities, so we can learn from each other. Regardless of your socioeconomic background, race, religion and any other difference, we all represent the human race.
Q. What is your favorite vacation destination?
A. Cape Town, South Africa. It is one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been to in my life. You experience raw beauty the minute you land on the motherland. It’s a must-see city and country. As soon as you have settled in from the long flight, you have to go immediately to Table Mountain. You will capture the closest thing to heaven on earth.
You’ll get a loftier view of those mountains from the 10,000-foot Schilthorn summit. The Schilthornbahn cable car takes riders up effortlessly in four stages. At about $100 round trip, it’s pricey, but when you’re surrounded by cut-glass peaks and breathing fresh mountain air, it’s one of Europe’s great deals. Whether filled with skiers in winter or hikers in summer, there’s a happy energy as you ascend in that glassand-steel bubble of mountain joy.
The Swiss love to cap their peaks with restaurants, and one of the most popular is the Schilthorn’s revolving Piz Gloria. Before opening to the public in 1969, it was the setting of key scenes in the James Bond movie “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service.” Today, there’s a fun 007 exhibit and Bond-themed toilets.
While gravelly trails lead down from the Schilthorn, casual hikers prefer taking the cable car down to Birg station. The station, while a fine springboard for hikes, is also entertaining, offering the Skyline Walk, a viewing platform with a transparent floor that juts out over the cliff edge and the Thrill Walk, a fun, 200-yard course with a steel-and-glassbottom floor, rope bridge and tunnel.
From Birg, you can walk down to the rustic hamlet of Gimmelwald (a great place to enjoy a post-hike beer or, better, spend the night).
The Swiss Alps, while great, are in perhaps the most expensive country in Europe. The French Alps above the resort town of
QQ. What untapped destination should people know about?
A. Istanbul has to be one of the most underrated and least-publicized locations. I was surprised at how amazing the city was. I know there has been a lot of unrest in the region, but that doesn’t take away from what Istanbul has to offer. The country is rich in religious history. The people were so nice there.
Q. What was the first trip you took as a child?
A. It was to Washington D.C., in 1991. It was our sixth-grade class trip. That was my first time on a plane and the first time leaving California. On that trip, I experienced a bunch of firsts: First time staying at a hotel, first time on a charter bus and first time visiting the White House. My favorite memory was meeting President George H.W. Bush coming off of Marine One. We did it all in D.C.!
Q. Where are your favorite weekend getaways?
A. San Diego has to be my favorite weekend getaway. It offers everything you could want to recharge and get ready to attack the workweek. The beaches, the endless outdoor activities and the weather are all you need — and the best Chamonix, near the junction of France, Switzerland, and Italy, are nearly as exhilarating and a lot more affordable.
In Chamonix, if the weather’s right, there’s nothing better than riding the cable car to the Aiguille du Midi, the 12,600-foot rock “needle of midday,” high above town and across from Mont Blanc. Up here, the air is thin, people are giddy and even when the Mexican food you will find in the U.S.
Q. If you’ve ever gone away for the holidays, which was the best trip?
A. Green Bay, Wis., has the whitest Christmas ever. Plus, the city has buzz to it during the football season. Even if you’re not a fan, you can appreciate the Christmas and (Green Bay) Packer enthusiasm. When I visit my brother up there, it’s always a good time to focus on family, mostly because you can’t go outside.
Q. Where have you traveled to that most reminded you of home?
A. No place has really reminded me of Los Angeles. It really is a city in its own lane. However, Lagos, Nigeria, reminds me of New York. It’s just go, go, go and honk, honk, honk!
Q. Where would you like to go that you have never been to before?
A. Antarctica and Australia.
Q. What would be your dream/fantasy trip?
A. Maldives would be a dream trip for me to take with my wife. Sorry, no kids for this trip! For more from the reporter, visit www.jaehakim.com. sun’s out it’s still bitter cold in July.
From here, a cute red gondola — Europe’s highest lift — glides slowly along a 3-mile cable dangling silently over the Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice) to Helbronner Point, at the border of Italy.
Above Chamonix Valley, the Grand Balcon Sud hike is lovely. Being a hiking lightweight, I prefer a trail where I can ride a lift to one end, enjoy high-mountain kicks all along (with minimal altitude gain) and then ride the lift down from the other end. This three-hour walk comes with staggering views of Mont Blanc, glaciers and wildflowers — and a fraction of the Aiguille du Midi crowds.
Italy’s Dolomites offer an entirely different flavor of the Alps. Dolomite, a sedimentary rock similar to limestone, gives these mountains their distinctive shape and color. This region, part of Italy only since World War I, is also unique for its Austrian roots, which still survive here, from the food to the bilingual German/Italianspeaking locals.
The city of Bolzano, blending Austrian tidiness with an Italian love for life, is the Dolomites’ gateway. But I prefer settling in higher up, in Castelrotto, right in the midst of mountain splendor yet without that empty skiresort-in-the-summer feeling.
Both towns provide easy access to the Alpe di Siusi, Europe’s largest alpine meadow. Undulating rather than flat, broken by rushing streams and dappled with shapely evergreens, the Alpe di Siusi is a well-run national park.
Alpe di Siusi boasts shuttle buses, well-kept huts, trails and lifts, along with spectacular views of the surrounding Dolomite peaks and lots of cows, who produce 2 million gallons of milk annually. Being here on a sunny summer day comes with the ambience of a day at the beach.
No matter which corner you’re exploring — Switzerland, France, Italy or beyond — the Alps provide a symphony of experiences that can endlessly delight lovers of culture, history and nature. They certainly have for me. Rick Steves (www.rick steves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at and follow his blog on Facebook.