Baltimore Sun Sunday

Jimmy’s Famous Seafood

- Tim.smith@baltsun.com twitter.com/clefnotes

off night in the crab department, perhaps.

Other elements of our meal proved far more satisfying.

The turf part of that entree, for example, was what I’d call a retro New York strip steak — thick, juicy, simply grilled, and containing good old-fashioned, crispy fat around the edges, like you used to get at home or at un-fancy eateries. It tasted indulgent, and I loved it. Same for the side of roasted sweet potatoes, with their delightful­ly peppery skins. Back to the famous seafood. From the fresh fish offerings, we chose rockfish and, from the available preparatio­ns, one dubbed Mediterran­ean — lemon vinaigrett­e and roasted tomato. (Other options include Asian, Caribbean, Parmesan-crusted and crabstuffe­d.) The result was a pleasing, low-keyed dish, ably supported by charred broccolini.

Our first course included large, well-fried coconut shrimp that came with a super-tangy dipping sauce of mango and ponzu. The kitchen also turned out a fine version of a golden-oldie, clams Service: ★★★; ★★★★; ★★; ★★★★★; ★] casino, that was very cheesy and full of zest from onions, peppers and bacon.

There was also much to be said for an appetizer of intensely flavorful mushroom caps stuffed with crab imperial. That was the most memorable crab-related bite of the night. A close second was a cup of half-Maryland crab, half-cream of crab soup — a perfect choice for an indecisive type like me, and a satisfying combo of hearty flavors.

For dessert, we savored the very tart and sweet toasted coconut Key lime pie, as well as an accomplish­ed Smith Island cake with deep chocolate flavor.

We encountere­d a few blips with service that night. Our affable server disappeare­d for long stretches and forgot a few essentials (we had to flag down someone else to get a mallet for the crabs and a container for the shells). No one replaced cutlery after courses, or cleared away crab remnants before dessert.

Overall though, we had a fun time with Jimmy’s something-foreveryon­e menu, the spacious and attractive­ly designed dining room, and the friendly vibes from staffers and customers alike. We even adjusted, mostly, to the conversati­on-challengin­g noise level. And we forgot all about the battle of the billboards.

 ?? KIM HAIRSTON/BALTIMORE SUN PHOTOS ?? The dining room at Jimmy’s Famous Seafood on Holabird Avenue is spacious and attractive­ly designed. 6526 Holabird Ave. 410-633-4040, jimmysfamo­usseafood.com Cuisine: American Prices: Appetizers $9 to $15; entrees $15 to $38; crabs $69 to $119 per dozen Ambiance: A friendly, bustling sceneOur server was informativ­e, droll, sometimes forgetful. Reservatio­ns: Accepted Parking: Surface lot Special diets: Check in advance Wheelchair accessible: Yes [Key: Superlativ­e: Excellent: Very good:Good: Promising:
KIM HAIRSTON/BALTIMORE SUN PHOTOS The dining room at Jimmy’s Famous Seafood on Holabird Avenue is spacious and attractive­ly designed. 6526 Holabird Ave. 410-633-4040, jimmysfamo­usseafood.com Cuisine: American Prices: Appetizers $9 to $15; entrees $15 to $38; crabs $69 to $119 per dozen Ambiance: A friendly, bustling sceneOur server was informativ­e, droll, sometimes forgetful. Reservatio­ns: Accepted Parking: Surface lot Special diets: Check in advance Wheelchair accessible: Yes [Key: Superlativ­e: Excellent: Very good:Good: Promising:
 ??  ?? Steak and Cake, a New York strip and broiled crab cake, with grilled asparagus at Jimmy’s.
Steak and Cake, a New York strip and broiled crab cake, with grilled asparagus at Jimmy’s.
 ??  ?? Half a dozen steamed crabs are served in a pot with corn and potatoes at Jimmy’s.
Half a dozen steamed crabs are served in a pot with corn and potatoes at Jimmy’s.

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