Nature, romance in Italy’s lakes district
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Northern Italy’s seductively beautiful lakes district — in the shadow of the Alps — seems heavensent for communing with nature. Though just an hour north of Milan, this area feels a world away from the business and bustle of Italy’s second city.
In this romantic region, wistful 19th-century villas are overgrown with old vines that seem to ache with stories to tell. Stunted palm trees appear to be held against their will in this northern location. And vistas are made-to-order for poets. In fact, it was early nature lovers who wrote and painted here and put this area on the tourist map in the 1800s.
Tourists have several lakes to choose from — Lake Garda, Lake Maggiore and others — and all have their charms. But my favorite is Lake Como, offering the best mix of accessibility, scenery, sightseeing and relaxation, with a heady whiff of aristocratic old days.
Lake Como is lined with luxurious villas, crowned by snowcapped mountains and busy with fleets of little ferries darting from one cute town to another. The most famous town is Bellagio, the self-proclaimed “Pearl of the Lake” — a combination of oldworld classiness and newworld luxury. Steep steps rise from the harbor front up to a smattering of sunsplashed squares. With spendy five-star hotels and high-end shopping, Bellagio pleases well-heeled travelers.
While a part of me enjoys
As “Twilight” celebrates the 10th anniversary of its theatrical release, Jackson Rathbone — who portrayed vampire Jasper Hale — is busy. He is one of the stars of the film “Heart, Baby!” and has a new single out, “Young and Tragic.” Born in Asia, the actor-musician says he traveled so much as a child that he feels “only at home when I’m traveling. I find myself residing mostly on airplanes, usually between Los Angeles and Austin. However, I’ve been known to fly all over the world for work, from Mexico to South Africa, Colombia to France, and even as far as the exotic plains of Canada!”
An edited version of our conversation follows.
A: We filmed in my mother’s hometown of New Orleans during Mardi Gras. I had my wife and our 3-year-old son join me and watch the parades. Mardi Gras can be a wonderful family experience. Debauchery isn’t necessary. Avoid the downtown parts of the parade. Go to the residential areas where the parades begin. Bring a folding chair, cooler full of beer and a jacket. And talk to anyone and everyone around you. Mardi Gras brings out the convivial nature of New Orleans. the “tramp in a palace” feeling I get in Bellagio, my ideal Lake Como home is Varenna. Easily accessible by train from Milan, Varenna packs its 800 residents into a compact townscape on the less-developed side of the lake. Individual homes are defined only by t heir pastel
A: Personally, I’m not a fan of living in an area that rains half the year. That being said, there is nothing more beautiful to me than the mossy underbellies of the fauna of the Pacific Northwest. I have been back to Portland for work many times. I’ve played the venue Doug Fir Lounge as a musician and loved the food and sound system there. My sister, Kelly Garrett Rathbone Rebo, is an internationally renowned sculptor, and she resides in Portland with her husband. I visit as often as I can to get my fill of family, mossy trees and the vibrant art scene.
A: Yes. If you have a film shooting in New Orleans, I’m bound to say yes. It is one of my favorite cities in the world. colors, and the old town has no streets — just characteristic stepped lanes. The passerella — a lakeside promenade connecting the ferry dock with the old town center — is a fine place to stroll.
On Lake Como, villa front doors face the lake to welcome visitors arriving Mexico. My family had a reunion there one year and we have been going back ever since. It’s not just all beaches and tropical alcoholic beverages. Check out the art walk in the historic main square.
A: Traverse City, Mich. I went to school at Interlochen Arts Academy, which is one town over from Traverse. The summer and spring in that area, near the northern top of the Michigan mitten, is gorgeous. From cherry picking to sand dunes, don’t forget to stop at the Hofbrau and try one of their famous fried pickles.
A: Countless religious and political ideologies run amok, but we all share the same planet. Just remember the golden rule: Treat others as you would like to be treated. For more from the reporter, visit www.jaehakim.com. by boat (and ferries arriving from Bellagio and Varenna). Many villas are owned by the region’s “impoverished nobility.” Bred and raised not to work, they eventually were unable to pay for the upkeep of their sprawling houses. While some villas have been bought by the region’s nouveaux riches, others have been transformed into hotels or sightseeing attractions.
For garden lovers, Villa Carlotta is the best — especially in spring, when many of its flowers are in peak bloom. But the dreamiest estate is Villa del Balbianello, which perches on a promontory near the village of Lenno and was featured in the movies “Casino Royale” and “Star Wars: Episode II.” Built at the end of the 18th century on the remains of an old Franciscan church, the villa reflects the exotic vision of its last owner, explorer Guido Monzino. The real masterpiece here is the terraced garden and splendid loggia, where the land fits the architecture and landscaping in a particularly lovely way.
Though it lacks the cozy charm of Lake Como, Lake Maggiore is a suitable backup destination. The best part of any visit here is a wander through the exotic gardens and elaborate villas built by the wealthy Borromeo family, which lovingly turned several of the lake’s islands into retreats.
Your handy transportation hub for these islands is the resort town of Stresa. While I find it generally lacking in character, it does have a fine waterfront promenade and stately 19th-century lakeside hotels dating back to when this town was on the Grand Tour circuit. Stresa is famous for its Grand Hotel des Iles Borromees, which served as an infirmary during World War I,
Qhosting a recovering Ernest Hemingway. The writer later returned to the hotel, setting part of his novel “A Farewell to Arms” here.
But Stresa is mainly worthwhile as a jumpingoff point for Lake Maggiore’s garden islands. The best one is Isola Bella, dominated by a palatial villa boasting a grand hall with an 80-foot-high dome, paintings from the Borromeo family’s private collection and an 18thcentury grotto, decorated from ceiling to floor with shell motifs and black-andwhite stones. The terraced Baroque gardens, with the Borromeo family unicorn sitting on top, give the island the look of a stepped pyramid from the water.
The other main Borromean islands are Isola Madre, featuring the first Borromeo palace — dark and somber with a huge collection of dolls, marionettes and exquisite 17thcentury marionette theater sets — and Isola Pescatori, the smallest and most residential of the three, with a couple of seafood restaurants, picnic benches, views and, blissfully, nothing to do.
While you can visit Italy’s lakes as a day trip from Milan, I recommend spending the night. You’ll really feel the romance of Europe. Make it a point to stroll a waterfront promenade. As you pass under wisteria-drenched villas and caryatid lovers pressed silently against each other, you’ll understand the importance of packing the right travel partner. Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.