Baltimore Sun Sunday

Have breakfast at Tiffany like Holly Golightly

Channel your inner Audrey Hepburn for a meal at the jeweler’s Fifth Avenue flagship store

- By Megan McDonough

In the 1961 film “Breakfast at Tiffany’s,” Audrey Hepburn’s character, Holly Golightly, muses that a visit to the jeweler’s Fifth Avenue flagship store “calms me down right away. The quietness and the proud look of it.” She continues, in these lines also found in Truman Capote’s novella of the same name, that “nothing very bad could happen to you there.”

Turns out, Golightly was right. I discovered this firsthand when I inadverten­tly knocked over a piece of Tiffany china during a visit to the Blue Box Cafe, the luxury retailer’s first dining venture, located on the fourth floor of the famed location.

The crash was neither quiet nor proud. I was mortified, and I know my middle school self — who coveted Tiffany’s chunky sterlingsi­lver jewelry beyond any school crush — would have been, too.

But instead of a proper scolding, my waiter nonchalant­ly whisked the broken crockery away. “It happens more often than you’d think,” he explained. His gaze shifted to another diner, who was struggling to hoist his heavy digital camera over his $70 Tiffany blue dinner plate. He looked back at me and smiled: “Just don’t let it ruin your experience.”

The concept of “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” has changed dramatical­ly since Golightly’s tranquil 5 a.m. stroll down Fifth Avenue in her sleeveless black dress. Now, instead of paper coffee cups and curbside pastries, modern-day Golightlys can indulge their rich fantasies with a three-course breakfast inside the store.

Visiting the seemingly built-forInstagr­am restaurant — which opened to fanfare in November of last year — has become a bucketlist item for foreign tourists, film

A: This is a really tough one to answer, but in terms of a place that I keep returning to again and again, it’s New York City. I lived there for a little while in 2015 and completely fell in love with it. No other city fills me with excitement the way New York does. It’s not a relaxing place, but I don’t really travel to relax; relaxing’s what I do at home.

A: I think Colombia is such a cool country, and I had a great time at the port city of Cartagena. I definitely want to go back and explore more of Colombia and South America. A: When I was about 6 years old, my family moved fans and even New Yorkers. The photo-friendly spot, outfitted entirely in the brand’s signature robin’s-egg blue and white, was reportedly designed with the intention of having guests feel like jewels nestled in one of Tiffany’s trademark boxes: A reservatio­n at the compact cafe, which seats only 40 people, has become as desirable as one of the jeweler’s heart-tag charm bracelets.

I was lucky enough to snag a last-minute weekday lunch reservatio­n online. (The cafe is open 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday and noon to 4:30 p.m. Sunday. Reservatio­ns can be made for up to four people on Resy.com and booked a month in advance, beginning at 9 a.m. Eastern time.) I arrived early to get the lay of the land and, in the spirit of Golightly, allow extra time for window shopping. Visitors must navigate the store’s bustling first floor — a maze of eager employees, shiny display cases and ogling tourists — to reach the elevators leading to the cafe, which are manned by whiteglove­d to Southeast Asia — Malaysia, Singapore and Hong Kong — for my dad’s work. My memories of it are mostly of all the new foods we were suddenly eating. I’m obsessed with fried rice to this day. Another memory is of a parade where men with hooks pierced through their backs pulled a float down the street. I think it’s fair to say my 6-year-old mind was blown.

A: When I was in Bolivia, my brother really wanted to ride Death Road, a treacherou­s 35mile road that’s famous for being the most dangerous road in the world. It’s become popular for tourists to get on a bike at the top and ride down to the bottom. I have a fear of heights and really didn’t want to do it, but eventually he convinced me. On the way there, we made friends with Christian, attendants. En route, I stopped to gawk at a whopping 128.54-carat yellow diamond.

I made my luxurious ascent to the fourth floor, where the cafe is perched at the end of the homeand-accessorie­s department. Nothing makes a person feel more cognizant of his or her income — or lack of it — than passing by a $125 bone-china dog bowl and a $400 mohair teddy bear.

At the host’s stand, I received the royal treatment — despite my lack of tiara and satin gloves — was whisked to a two-top table facing Central Park’s Grand Army Plaza. Many restaurant guests had dressed for the posh occasion in fancy fascinator­s and black cocktail dresses. One group of women, clad head to toe in blue, even bragged to their waiter that they’d gotten matching teal mani-pedis the night before.

From the walls to the slipcovere­d chairs and leather-bound booths, the space was a veritable sea of Tiffany blue. The attentive and friendly staff even sported blue ties and aprons. who was traveling by himself from Norway. Long story short, Christian accidental­ly went off the side of the road and lost his life. It’s easily the worst travel experience I’ve had.

A: When I was in my 20s, I took a bus around Ireland with a bunch of other tourists, mostly Aussies, Kiwis and Brits. Every night, we were in a different city and instead of drinking with the rest of the backpacker­s, I’d usually head out by myself to wander around. In Galway I met a girl at a bar, and when she found out I was leaving the next day, she took me on a walking tour of the city. It was after midnight and everything was closed, but we looked through the window of her favorite gallery and walked along the river and saw the swans. I walked her home, thanked her and went back to the hostel. That was a pretty good night.

The menu was full of trendy American fare (avocado toast) with buzzy New York monikers (the Fifth Avenue salad, with Maine lobster and grapefruit). And though I arrived at noon, I ordered breakfast, which is served all day. The decadent $32 meal included a seasonal fruit plate with edible flowers and pre-peeled grapes; a miniature croissant with three spreads (Nutella, butter and jam); and my choice of one of four entrees. I opted for the smoked salmon and crisps — basically a deconstruc­ted lox bagel.

While the food could coast on the Tiffany name and nostalgia alone, the cafe delivers in terms of presentati­on and flavor: The fruit was fresh, the croissant buttery and flaky. And the bagel crisps featured a generous portion of fresh lox. I savored every bite during my leisurely meal.

Sipping my second cup of coffee and staring out at the city’s natural gem, Central Park, I was tempted to start humming “Moon River.” However, this serene moment was interrupte­d by a gaggle of giggling

QGolightly­s, staging a full-blown photo shoot with a pastry shaped like a miniature bird’s nest. “Get one of me with the sunglasses on!” one of the bouffants bellowed to her smartphone-wielding seatmate. Despite the quiet and proud bones of this place, it is still susceptibl­e to enthusiast­ic selfie-seekers who want to preserve — and, perhaps more important, share — their fine memories of this special place.

Susceptibl­e to my neighbors’ enthusiasm, I decided that I, too, wanted a memento. I set my purse on the table, snapped a final photo of the tablescape — and clumsily bumped the white china creamer off the table.

Instead of pocketing a shard of Tiffany china, I asked my waiter whether I could keep a cardboard coaster as a keepsake. He smiled, then returned with a second.

I guess everyone channels Golightly’s spirit in their own way. The Blue Box Cafe, in the Tiffany tradition, makes a world of luxury and glamour accessible to all — even if only for breakfast.

 ?? CHRISTIE’S ?? Audrey Hepburn starred in the 1961 film “Breakfast at Tiffany’s.”
CHRISTIE’S Audrey Hepburn starred in the 1961 film “Breakfast at Tiffany’s.”

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