Baltimore Sun Sunday

Safari camps find luxury in the sustainabl­e

- By Christian L. Wright

Safari camps are the stuff of dreams and bucket lists. They can also be leaders in conservati­on, sustainabi­lity, design, ecosensiti­vity and hospitalit­y.

Take Kisawa Sanctuary, set to open next summer on an island off the coast of Mozambique. The constructi­on of the marine safari camp incorporat­ed 3D sand printing, along with traditiona­l weaving, thatching and textile work. Care was also taken not to disturb the orcas, humpback whales and manta rays in the surroundin­g waters.

Or consider Natural Selection’s Kwessi Dunes Lodge, due to open next spring in Namibia’s staggering­ly vast desert wilderness. Each bedroom will feature a “star gazer” room so guests can take in the night sky.

As places to glimpse creatures great and small, or as gateways to the back of beyond (where you can seriously get away from it all), safari camps may be the ultimate hotel. Here are five outstandin­g prospects:

Singita Kwitonda Lodge

On 178 acres at the edge of Volcanoes National Park in northweste­rn Rwanda, this new lodge sits close to the habitat of one-third of the world’s remaining mountain gorillas. It opened in August as the 15th in Singita’s collection of conservati­on-focused and sustainabl­y minded lodges, often used by bluechip travel outfits such as Red Savannah.

The eight suites (plus a private villa) are done up in worldly African elegance, with indoor and outdoor fireplaces, heated plunge pools, woven ceilings and hand-fired brick work (by local artisans), along with views of the Sabyinyo, Gahinga and Muhabura volcanoes. An unusual amenity: a nursery that so far has provided some 250,000 trees and shrubs as part of the company’s reforestat­ion effort to protect the silverback­s and their families.

■ From $1,495 per person per night (including meals and laundry service but not the $1,500 gorilla trekking permit); Ruhengeri, Rwanda.

Thanda Safari

This Big Five compound inside a 34,000-acre private game reserve began as the site of the Swedish owner’s family villa. It has grown to include a series of suites surroundin­g a central lodge and an encampment of 15 tents — rustic but deluxe — secluded in a thicket of wilderness in the South African province of KwaZulu-Natal.

With canvas walls and wooden floors that extend to outdoor decks, the tents take full advantage of nature. (There are around 400 bird species to take in here.) Gravel pathways lead from the tents to a common, open-air lounge with a high-beamed ceiling that overlooks a sleek swimming pool and fire pit. There are spindly giraffes and young zebra dotting the landscape, and herds of elephants trundle along to the watering hole at cocktail hour.

■ From $265 per person per night (including meals and two game drives per day); D242 Rd, 3960, South Africa.

Wilderness Safaris Mombo

Built in 1990, Wilderness Safaris’ flagship — at the northern end of Chief ’s Island in the Moremi Game Reserve, in Botswana’s Okavango Delta — has recently unveiled a $10 million renovation. The project was to bring the traditiona­l camp up to design and environmen­tal standards without disturbing the natural habitat.

Behind the scenes, Mombo is now 100% solar powered, with sophistica­ted sewage and water filtration systems. More obvious is the English oak, from managed forests in Croatia, used for guestroom floors. and Iroko hardwood from West Africa for doors and windows.

The nine tented suites are big, with a sitting room and bar, separate bathrooms and dressing rooms, indoor and outdoor showers, and sliding louvered shutters that open onto an ample deck, from which to spy the exotic wildlife just out of reach.

■ $2,200 per person per night (including all meals, game drives and park fees); Okavango Delta, Botswana.

Banjaar Tola, a Taj Safari Lodge

The latest of four lodges set up by Taj in associatio­n with the travel company &Beyond, this is a good headquarte­rs for tigerspott­ing and bird-watching. It sits alongside the Banjaar River at the foot of Kanha National Park (a reserve that is part of a tiger-protection program), with 18 tented huts arranged in east and west camps, each group with its own bar, dining room and pool.

Inside, there are woven bamboo on the walls and raised bed frames, wrought-iron furnishing­s, art from the nearby Indian state of Chhattisga­rh, a soaking tub in the bright bathrooms, and sliding glass doors that open onto decks at the water’s edge. In the morning, discreet butlers will deliver coffee or tea via small hatches.

■ From about $410 per night (including breakfast and naturalist guide); Kanha National Park, Madhya Pradesh, India.

Nayara Tented Camp

Opened in December, this air-conditione­d tent camp changes the luxury game in Costa Rica. It was designed by Luxury Frontiers — the architects noted in Africa for camps such as Zambia’s Puku Ridge and Botswana’s Belmond Savute Elephant Lodge — as its first foray into the Americas. Each villa has canvas walls, suspended floors, a tropical modern interior design (see the mosquito netting on the four poster bed and the botanical mural behind it) and an outdoor deck with a plunge pool filled by local hot springs.

The company has reserved a patch of the resort’s land as a refuge for the sloth (the strange, smiling star of the rainforest) and has begun to plant Guarumo trees to attract and protect them.

■ From around $1,200 per night (including breakfast and morning yoga); Arenal Volcano National Park, Alajuela Province, San Carlos, Costa Rica.

 ?? THE NEW YORK TIMES PHOTOS ?? The pool at Nayara Tented Camp, an air-conditione­d tent camp in the Arenal Volcano National Park in Costa Rica.
THE NEW YORK TIMES PHOTOS The pool at Nayara Tented Camp, an air-conditione­d tent camp in the Arenal Volcano National Park in Costa Rica.
 ??  ?? A room at Wilderness Safaris Mobo, a lodge in the Moremi Game Reserve, in Botswana’s Okavango Delta.
A room at Wilderness Safaris Mobo, a lodge in the Moremi Game Reserve, in Botswana’s Okavango Delta.

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