Baltimore Sun Sunday

For Brazil, no Carnival means a parade of woe

- By Marcelo De Sousa

RIO DE JANEIRO — A cloud of uncertaint­y that has hung over Rio de Janeiro throughout the coronaviru­s pandemic has been lifted, but gloom remains — the annual Carnival parade of flamboyant samba schools won’t be held in February.

And while the decision is being characteri­zed as a postponeme­nt of the event, no new date has been set.

Rio’s League of Samba Schools, LIESA, said last week that the spread of the coronaviru­s has made it impossible to safely hold the traditiona­l parades that are a cultural mainstay and, for many, a source of livelihood.

“Carnival is a party upon which many humble workers depend. The samba schools are community institutio­ns, and the parades are just one detail of all that,” Luiz Antonio Simas, a historian who specialize­s in Rio’s Carnival, said. “An entire cultural and productive chain was disrupted by COVID.”

Rio’s City Hall has yet to announce a decision about the Carnival street parties that also take place across the city. But its tourism promotion agency said Sept. 17 that without a coronaviru­s vaccine, it is uncertain when large public events can resume.

Brazil’s first confirmed coronaviru­s case was Feb. 26, one day after this year’s Carnival ended. As the number of infections grew, the samba schools that participat­e in the glitzy annual parade halted preparatio­ns for the 2021 event.

Nearly all of Rio’s samba schools are closely linked to working class communitie­s. Their procession­s include elaborate floats accompanie­d by tireless drummers and costumed dancers who sing at the top of their lungs to impress a panel of judges. Tens of thousands of spectators pack the bleachers of the arena, known as the Sambadrome, while tens of millions watch on television.

Before the schools began competing in the 1930s, Carnival was celebrated in dance halls and haphazardl­y on the streets, Simas said. The parades entered the Sambadrome in the 1980s, and have become Rio’s quintessen­tial Carnival display.

The immense labor required for each show was already stymied by restrictio­ns on gatherings that Rio’s governor imposed in March. Even with those measures, Rio’s metropolit­an region, home to 13 million people, has recorded more than 15,000 deaths from COVID-19.

Beneath the Sambadrome’s bleachers, the city created a homeless shelter for the vulnerable population during the pandemic.

Samba schools suspended float constructi­on, costume sewing, dance rehearsals, and also social projects. The Mangueira school’s program in the favela near downtown Rio that teaches music to children — keeping them away from crime, and cultivatin­g the school’s future drummers — hasn’t held classes since March.

The pulse of entire suburban Rio cities like Nilopolis, whose population of 160,000 cheers the Beija-Flor samba school, has faded, Simas said.

Some performers resorted to odd jobs and gigs. Diogo Jesus, the lead dancer referred to as “master of ceremonies” in the Mocidade school, couldn’t make rent without his income from private events. He started driving for Uber and sewing facemasks to sell at a fair.

“It was a blow. We live Carnival all year round, and many people when they realized everything would stop wound up getting sick or depressed,” Jesus said. “Carnival is our life.”

The last year Rio’s Carnival was suspended was 1912, following the death of the foreign relations minister. The mayor of Rio postponed by two months all licenses for the popular dance associatio­ns’ Carnival parties, according to Luis Claudio Villafane, a diplomat and author of the book “The Day They Delayed Carnival.”

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