Roger Vivier’s creative direc­tor, Bruno Frisoni, on the brand’s le­gacy, fu­ture and the iconic buckle that put the fash­ion house on the map

Roger Vivier’s creative direc­tor opens up about that iconic buckle, so­cial me­dia and more.

Boston Common - - CONTENTS - By Meg McGuire

“For Vivier, the buckle is our cen­ter­piece, defin­ing what will be a for­ever clas­sic.” -BRUNO FRISONI

“There’s al­ways the iconic pieces that gen­er­ate the suc­cess of a brand,” says Bruno Frisoni, creative direc­tor of shoe, hand­bag and ac­ces­sory brand Roger Vivier (roger­vivier.com). “For Vivier, the buckle is our cen­ter­piece, defin­ing what will be a for­ever clas­sic. It’s an el­e­ment of recog­ni­tion—it makes you a club mem­ber,” he says of the fash­ion house’s now leg­endary Strass buckle, which be­came fa­mous 50 years ago after ac­tress Cather­ine Deneuve donned a Vivier pump in her film Belle de Jour. When it comes to his in­spi­ra­tion, Frisoni cer­tainly looks to the ar­chives, but he’s con­sis­tently try­ing to rein­vent the brand with a fresh per­spec­tive. “When you go back to the ar­chives... it gives you new en­ergy,” he ex­plains. “That be­ing said, I am also afraid of the ar­chives—it can be a trap. Fash­ion is al­ways chang­ing so you need to change too.” Frisoni knows he must be ahead of what peo­ple want, while also cre­at­ing what they want now. Most re­cently, the “want” is the Roger Vivier’s Sneaky Viv’ sneaker, which is avail­able in a va­ri­ety of silks and satins, and is crowned with the iconic buckle. Frisoni has scaled down his an­nual col­lec­tions to two, rather than four. “Show­ing four col­lec­tions a year was a strug­gle,” he ex­plains. “We need to be more and more ef­fi­cient, and we have less and less time. No one wants to wait,” says the de­signer. “To me, wait­ing gen­er­ates de­sire. But if you make me wait for months, I’d be crazy. I’d pass.” The in­stant de­sire for the lat­est and great­est could be con­nected to the rise of so­cial me­dia, but Frisoni is not af­fected by the likes of In­sta­gram or Face­book. “In­sta­gram is a tir­ing sys­tem,” he says. “I have to be on In­sta­gram, but it eats a lot of time. You can post, but you only have a frac­tion of a sec­ond to at­tract at­ten­tion—there are too many things to look at and that be­comes very empty.” That’s why Frisoni’s sen­ti­ment of the clas­sic rings so true: “Clas­sics are the cen­ter and the soul of ev­ery col­lec­tion. If you don’t have a great clas­sic, then you have to gen­er­ate one be­fore you can ex­press any­thing else.”

Clock­wise from left: Roger Vivier’s black satin slide, $1,395; the brand’s creative direc­tor, Bruno Frisoni; the el­e­gant Pil­grim mi­cro bag in Etoiles Rivets, $2,500.

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