SIGHT SKIING
You haven’t seen anything like gorgeous Lake Louise
Idon’t know how anyone can ever finish a run at Lake Louise Ski Resort in Alberta, Canada. It’s not the crowds because, even when they have them, the mountain’s 4,200 acres spreads them out well. It’s not a lack of snow since the trails are blessed by amazing natural snowfall for a good long season. It’s the gosh-darn spectacular views. Skiing there recently, every time I turned a corner, I had to stop and stare in awe.
“Wow,” I said for the billionth time to a friend as I soaked in a view of the “Ten Peaks” in the near distance. Then quickly added, “I’m sorry if I’m slowing you down with all this ‘wow-ing.’”
“Are you kidding me?” she replied. “I’ve been here for years and it still blows me away.”
That really happened, but here’s why we were actually able to rip tens of thousands of vertical feet a day during my visit: because the skiing is as epic as the view. Lake Louise, about two hours out of Calgary, blew me away.
Located in the Banff National Park — Canada’s first national park and the world’s third — Lake Louise is tucked into one of the most visually stunning places I’ve seen on this continent. It’s part French Alps, part western vibe and very much its own special place.
Driving up the narrow road to the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, my home base for the trip, I was sold before I even pulled in. Ahead of me, giant, craggy white-frosted peaks jutted into the sky. Closer to me, tall, dark and stately pines framed that view. Around the corner was the Fairmont Chateau, as amazing in person as legend has it.
Tucked into a nook of the mountains on the shore of the lake, the Fairmont offers a European flair, high end service and amazing comfort. My room looked out over the lake where the hotel has carved out a giant skating area (with an ice castle to pass through), and out to many of those incredible peaks.
First thing in the morning, I hopped a resort shuttle to the ski area. Dropped at the base of the area and picked up there as well, it removed all the schlep in the day. The shuttle was filled with families with small kids, older couples, some snowboard dudes and even a pair of newlyweds. Diversity reigned.
Upon arriving, I was a little disappointed that it was not a powder day. They’d had a boatload two days prior, and the mountain’s runs — many groomed — looked pristine. And oh, were they ever.
First, the surface. Lake Louise’s staff clearly embraces great snow management. We skied bell to bell and I never — not once — hit an ice patch. On top of that, the front and back side mountain contained expansive and varied terrain, so we found untouched snow.
But what was most amazing to me about Lake Louise was the access. With winding catwalks that ski more like runs than crossovers, any level of skier can experience almost any part of the mountain. Want to head to the backside and dip your toes in a more “back country” experience? There’s a route for you that can either lure you into some harder more natural stuff or let you ski alongside it and soak it in. Like to carve down steep groomers? You can find them at almost any turn you take. Love bumps and trees? You’ll never tire of the lines you find there.
The lift setup is great, too. While the mountain spreads out in multiple directions, it’s a snap to find your way around. With plenty of quads, a gondola and a six pack thrown in, you don’t find yourself waiting often. And then there is the Poma lift. I’d not used one since I was a teen, but at Lake Louise, that’s just how you access the runs at the top of the mountain. It’s fun to be pulled along the steep ascent, giving you time to look out as you rise to the top. And the terrain up there is worthy of the ride. There are hikeable challenge trails, too, for those who are into that. Hiring a guide is a great way to find those special spots. The resort also offers a daily, mid-day, free mountain tour to help you get the feel for the in-bound sections of the mountain.
Lake Louise attracts many locals — it’s a quick jaunt up the highway from Calgary, and now, more and more New Englanders are discovering its magic as well.
I sure did. Heading down a beautiful bowl on the backside, all of a sudden, the world started to sparkle around me. My friend and I stopped short and silently took it in. There was no wind, and yet tiny flakes of snow were spinning in the air and catching the bright sun. In front of us, a swirl formed, like a giant funnel of sparkle reaching up to the sky. It stunned us silent. As we watched it in awe, I decided it was particles made up of my worries in life — my angst and stress. Up, up they lifted, becoming beautiful as they disappeared into the blue, blue sky.
“Let’s call it alpine pixie dust,” I told my friend. She agreed. Lake Louise just has that kind of magic. All you have to do is be there, eyes open and skis or board ready.