Boston Herald

Your car’s future may be under wraps

Wraps actually protect the original paint and make sense on new as well as used cars. When you get weary of it, the wrap is easily removed.

- MOTORMOUTH By Bob Weber Bob Weber is a writer and mechanic who became an ASE certified Master Automobile Technician in 1976. He maintains this status by seeking certificat­ion every five years. Weber’s work appears in profession­al trade magazines and other

Q: I’m looking to get my Mustang repainted. Not sure whether to go for a regular paint job or a vinyl wrap for the car. It would be in a solid color. Don’t know how the wrap would hold up as far as getting dings or scratches on it. Also, don’t know if it would fade much from the sun. I would welcome your response as opposed to someone trying to sell me the vinyl wrap.

— T.B., Ft. Lauderdale, Fla.

A: We think that vinyl wraps are way cool. At the 3M Innovation Center in St. Paul, Minn., we helped wrap a BMW with a carbon fiber look and it was awesome. Wraps actually protect the original paint and make sense on new as well as used cars. When you get weary of it, the wrap is easily removed, reverting to your original paint. Wraps are durable and provide the graphics for many commercial vehicles.

Q: I have a 2015 Subaru Forester with the continuous­ly variable transmissi­on. The owner’s manual says to inspect the fluid every 30,000 miles. Various dealers have said either the transmissi­on is sealed and needs no service for the life of the transmissi­on or I can change the fluid if I want. Inspection of the fluid costs $200 as does the changing of the fluid. Past vehicles I have owned had regular automatic transmissi­ons and I changed the fluid every 30,000 miles. I have concerns about not changing the fluid in the CVT. What do you think I should do? — K.B., Elinda, Ohio

A: We suggest you follow the advice in your owner’s manual. The CVT in your vehicle is expected to need no service for life unless you punish it by towing a yacht. It has a 10-year, 100,000mile warranty that just might be voided if a shop does a bad job of changing the fluid. Actually, there is more risk of damage from contaminat­ion during a fluid change than there is from leaving things alone.

Q: I have a 2005 Honda Odyssey with 83,000 miles. The dealer recommende­d changing the timing belt, tensioner and water pump at a cost of around $925. My manual says to change it at 90,000 miles. What to do?

— J.W., Warminster, Pa.

A: Changing the timing belt sooner rather than later could avoid expensive engine damage. Sure, you may be able to extend the service out to 100,000 miles, but it would be a false economy. Bite the bullet and have the job done.

Q: I have a 1997 4WD Suzuki Sidekick with 99,000 miles. Looks new and runs well. The owner’s manual and door decal indicate tire pressure be set at 23 psi. Mechanics I have spoken to say the tire pressure should be 32 psi. I have compromise­d and set it at 28 psi. What is the correct pressure for the vehicle?

— P.L., Northbrook, Ill.

A: The manufactur­er would not waste money printing door jamb stickers if it didn’t want you to fill the tires to that pressure.

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