Hajj serves up Lebanese treats of his childhood

Boston chef and restaurateur Jay Hajj savored saj and manakish as a young boy. Saj and manakish are flatbreads flavored with a variety of toppings, including za'atar, a traditional Middle Eastern spice mixture; a Lebanese slaw of fresh herbs and vegetables; or lahme bi ajeen, a rich, savory stew of ground lamb or beef seasoned with aromatic spices.

“In reality, you can flavor saj or manakish anyway you desire,” Hajj said. “But za'atar, Lebanese slaw and lahme bi ajeen are my favorite traditional styles.”

Saj and manakish can be made with the same dough and look similar, too. But there are two major differences.

First, saj is traditionally cooked over the bottom of a thin sheet of rounded metal that's placed over an open fire. A wok turned upside down on your kitchen stovetop will work just fine, writes Hajj. Manakish is more like a pizza that's baked in the oven.

Second, saj is traditionally a country bread cooked outdoors and served in the mountains or among the once vast forests of the famous cedars of Lebanon. Manakish is a street food served in the cities and enjoys wider popularity than saj.

“You see manakish everywhere,” Hajj said. “It's more common in Lebanon than pizza is here in the United States. These flatbreads are easy to make and delicious and are gaining a foothold in sophisticated American food cities such as Boston, New York and Los Angeles.”