We are the world
Designers embrace range of styles, shows
NEW YORK — In wrapping up its Spring 2018 collections, New York Fashion Week ends on an upbeat note — one that combined a slew of cultures and aesthetics, visions and philosophies. Some of it was down to earth, and plenty leaned toward the highly fantastical.
The Marc Jacobs show was squarely in the latter camp, held in the spacious Park Avenue Armory. The designer went off the usual runway grid, setting out just one row of chairs instead of a runway set, so models slowly meandered around a huge empty room. They wore a hodgepodge of sportswear with ethnic references: colorful turbans, glitter- and feather-speckled dresses and coats, beaded caftans, huge blazers and pants that ranged from althleisure-like striped joggers to Indian-inspired trousers. Fun and creative, absolutely. Subdued enough to wear to the office? Definitely not, but that was never the point.
On the other hand, at The Row’s show (held at The Carlyle Hotel), luxurious work wear and polished shapes were everywhere. Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen conjured up simple ensembles of loose khakis, elegantly beaded silk dresses, long flowing tunics and tailored coats and pantsuits.
And then it was back to a mixture of sparkles and prints, multicultural and pop art at Coach. Designer Stuart Vevers included pieces inspired by everything from biker chic and country and western to urbane denim and classic rock ’n’ roll.
Two designers celebrated two decades in the business with a clear call for individuality: Maria Cornejo and Tracy Reese. Cornejo did so with a return to her early designs: casual but elegant bright fuchsia, billowy dresses, shrugs and neatly cut linen and denim pants — sent out on a group of models of diverse looks and ages. (One was Maye Musk, mother of Elon Musk.)
That theme continued at Tracy Reese, where models of all ages, ethnic backgrounds and body types (including plus sizes) showed off gorgeously hued bright dresses, loosely tailored hot-pink pantsuits, flattering suit jackets with pencil skirts and wrap dresses in Marimekko-like prints. But it wasn’t just about the clothes; Reese took it one step further by giving her models an individual voice — literally. As they walked in the show, each spoke (some in different languages) about the things most important to them, on topics ranging from freedom to body-positive thinking to family. As Reese told the press: “I wanted them to tell their stories about their journeys, their dreams and their aspirations, in whatever language felt most natural to them.” After all, she said, “The woman makes the clothes.” Something the proud diversity of her show — the clothes, the bodies, the ages, the ethnicities and the models’ viewpoints — all proved.