Perfect fall getaway
DISCOVER COOL EATS, OCEAN VIEWS, RICH HISTORY IN BRISTOL, R.I.
This is the perfect time of year for a good day trip — crisp air with a sun still warm enough to let you lose the jacket by midday, a hint of color on the trees. And places less busy with summer tourists.
Last week, a beautiful forecast lured my husband and me on a jaunt to Bristol, R.I., a 10-squaremile or so peninsula jutting into Narragansett Bay.
I knew some things about Bristol: that it was attacked during the American Revolution (twice!), that it is home to the longest-running annual celebration of American independence, that Roger Williams University is there and, of course, that the street lines on its main roads are red, white and blue.
We hoped to wander through a quaint town, walk along the ocean and grab some interesting bites. We got all that and more. Bristol, we found, is the perfect New England autumn escape.
We arrived at 8 a.m. on a Sunday, but the crowd was already lined up and buzzing at our first destination, the Beehive Cafe. I'd been told by friends it was a must stop, and to not let the line scare me away. Sage advice. We stood in line (you order your food, find a seat and they bring it to you when ready). I chose the rosemary biscuit topped with gravy, a poached egg and a thick grilled slice of ham (and some grilled tomatoes — you know, to make it healthy). My husband looked at the server and said, “Two eggs over easy and some bacon.” Then, as I rolled my eyes, he said, “Oh, heck, change that! Apple pie French toast, please.”
We found a table upstairs, looking out on the ocean, and tucked into our amazing meal. More full than we planned on being, we headed to Colt State Park to stretch our legs a bit. I'd heard the park was lovely — it blew us away. The park's 464 acres are made up of lush lawns, marshland, sparkling blue inlets, walking paths, stone bridges and more.
The park winds along the bay, offering views across it. The name Colt comes from Samuel Colt; this land was once his farm (and, terribly, a center for his slave trading). Today, it is home to town playing fields, part of the East Bay Bike Path, a pier for fishing (you do need a permit), shady picnic areas that look out over the ocean and an open-air stone chapel.
Folks run there, ride bikes, picnic and more. We could have spent all day there.
In search of some history, we headed to Blithewold Mansion, just down the road a bit. With amazing gardens (with labeled trees, plants and flowers), a rolling lawn to the sea and the house open for tours, it's a great spot to learn how the wealthy lived back in the day in Bristol.
Ways to explore history, both of
land and sea, are plentiful in bristol. at the herreshoff Marine Museum, you can learn all about shipmaking and view the america's cup hall of Fame. coggeshall Farm Museum explores how tenant farmers lived in the region in the 18th century. There are also museums of art, trains and more. Learn about them all at explorebristolri.com.
Next we headed to hope street, the center of town that runs parallel to the ocean. We picked through quaint shops and soaked in the local scene. Four older men sat on a main corner playing checkers. We made note of spots we'd like to eat next time (the town is heavily settled by folks of Portuguese and Italian descent, but you can find all kinds of food). On our list for next time: angelina's coffee shop, Quito's for a waterside cocktail and the Judge roy bean saloon for a Guinness.
hungry again from the fresh air and fun, we headed to the Lobster Pot and sat outside. as we noshed on quahog chowder and fresh, flaky fish and chips, a loon just past us in the harbor dove for fish, coming up with two at a time in his mouth, and dined with us. We savored that meal and that setting (inside the Lobster Pot is just as wonderful, with huge windows bathing diners with the view).
We headed back home, crossing over the Mount hope bridge, a breathtaking way to say goodbye for now to a lovely town. bristol will be a stop for us again, next time with our bikes, when we'll take the east bay bike Path along the water all the way to Providence and back.