CHARCUTERIE MASTER
Chef Smith brings Moody’s to Back Bay — but that’s just the start
Next week, chef Joshua Smith opens the doors to Moody's Delicatessen & Provisions in Boston. It's the Back Bay spinoff to his same-named Waltham deli-restaurant, one that has earned a loyal legion of fans for the mind-blowing artisanal meats Smith produces for thousands of customers (including many high-end local restaurants) under his New England Charcuterie brand.
Good news, gourmand carnivores: He's already planning the next steps in his empire.
“The five-year plan is to have no less than five delis,” Smith said. His determined thousand-yard stare darts around the room, constantly surveying the shop's workers, from contractors building wall shelves to staffers stocking glass cases with top-grade New England Charcuterie cured meats, terrines and other items that range from the familiar (like pastrami) to the fancy (say, “pork & pistachio pate”). Smith's exacting eye and attention to detail already turned Moody's from a cult favorite among foodies to an exponentially fast-growing operation, and these final pre-opening touches feel like dress rehearsal for future deliindustry domination.
“We want to bring our love and passion to cities all over,” said Smith, dropping New York City, Los Angeles, Napa and South Beach as potential sites for more Moody's locations. “I want to have New England Charcuterie be a household name, up there with Boar's Head.”
He's well on his way.
The North Carolina native cut his teeth in the worlds of gourmet grocers (Dean & DeLuca, under the tutelage of French master Charles Semail), hotels (the posh Four Seasons brand) and restaurants, opening Boston's Tico for star chef-restaurateur Michael Schlow.
In 2013, he launched Moody's in Waltham, the state's first licensed facility to make and sell aged meats, as a home base for his then-burgeoning deli biz, earning raves for mouthwatering eats made using highest-level products and practices. Moody's added a wellreceived full-
service restaurant, dubbed “The Backroom,” in 2015, reinforcing Smith's realchef bona fides alongside his meat-centric Everyman persona.
But his empire really struck the big time with last year's opening of the “Death Star,” Smith's amusing nickname for New England Charcuterie's new 10,000-square-foot, state-of-the-art production facility. He went from processing 400-500 pounds of meat per day to about 2,000-3,000 pounds per day, the better to keep up with growing demand from such accounts as star chef Mario Batali's massive food emporium Eataly Boston, which now stocks its shelves with New England Charcuterie products.
Moody's Back Bay iteration is tailored to the neighborhood, offering the expected grab-and-go breakfast and lunch sandwiches (which can be preordered via a smartphone app) alongside options exclusive to this heavily foottrafficked location: Think grain bowls, flatbreads and cold-brew lattes served on tap. Smith says he's signed a short lease for his storefront on the street level of the 500 Boylston St. office building, and may move into a larger space at the address if its owner pulls off possible plans to redevelop its courtyard in the next few years. If so, he could imagine adding a “Backroom” to Back Bay, too.
Meanwhile, he's also adding two new, distinct components to Waltham Moody's: a tacos-and-barbecue spot (expect piles of hand-cut brisket), and a raw bar for crudo plates, seafood terrines and more. Smith says either concept could eventually spin off into its own branch of the business, or be added to future Moody's locations.
While he's building a big brand, Smith promises he won't cut corners to make it happen. He recalls an arrangement he had with a major baseball stadium that wanted him to make sausages with meat that didn't meet his standards. Smith stuck to his guns and refused to compromise his quality.
“I'm hungry,” said Smith. “But I'm not that hungry.”