Boston Herald

CHILLING IN PARADISE

Check out Key West’s quieter side at marina-based Perry Hotel

- By MOIRA McCARTHY

It's hard for me to admit, but in some ways, I'm outgrowing the bar scene. Not that I don't like to visit a great one, but when I pick a vacation destinatio­n, it's not the be all and end all. So it might surprise you that I chose Key West, Fla., for a recent getaway. Known for its amazing nightlife scene in and around Duval Street (I've long thought of it as the Disney World of bars), Key West has a chill side.

My recent midweek escape there was relaxing yet active, entertaini­ng but not exhausting. True, I did pop into a few of those Duval Street bars — and I certainly people-watched. But my main theme was just unwinding.

I started with the right hotel. While I've loved staying within walking distance of the vibrant downtown, this time I opted for a room over on Stock Island in the new Perry Hotel. It has conversati­on areas, fire pits, inviting seating areas, bright rooms with big balconies and a perfect pool area set right on a marina. Its foray onto Stock Island is helping turn that part of Key West into a must-visit spot.

Some might be put off by being five miles from the center of the action; I loved it. The Perry's shuttle service runs regularly. By our second day there, the drivers knew us by name. Popping to Old Town and back was a breeze. And when we stayed out later than the shuttle runs, we grabbed an Uber in less than a minute. “We take pride in that,” our driver told us.

But it's wonderful to make your home base somewhere as peaceful and chill as the Perry Hotel. Early mornings, I went running, using marina docks as my path. By the third day, boat owners (many of whom live on the boats and use the hotel and shuttle regularly) were yelling good morning to me.

When we craved water sports, the Perry's concierge was able to find what we wanted just a few steps away. First, we chose a sunset cruise on the When and If, a beautiful tall ship that was

built for Gen. George Patton. When we were told the sunset cruise was not a booze cruise, we were happy. The When and If crew members were informativ­e and fun, and our sunset sail, with only about eight other folks on board, was perfection. Learn more at sailwhenan­dif.com. and here's a cool aside: The ship will call salem its home port this summer. Go visit them there and talk about Key West.

The concierge also set us up with namaste Eco Excursions for a day of snorkeling. Our boat was a classic

Chris-Craft that seated just four of us and the two owners, retired teachers Jeff and Trish. Our small group headed out about five miles to the coral reef and on the way, Trish educated us about coral, the sea life and what we'd see. Out there, no other boats or humans visible in any direction, we saw amazing fish and coral. On the way back, Jeff talked about reefs, the environmen­t and the need to save them. It was so much more than any snorkeling trip I've ever taken. Learn more at namastesai­ling.com.

We dined often on site. The breakfast and dinner at Matt's Stock Island Kitchen & Bar were sublime. We also hung out at the hotel's Salty Oyster Dockside Bar & Grill. In the afternoon, when beer and apps are half off, the locals flock. Soaking in the sun, music and beer was a highlight.

We also discovered a food truck with a thatched hut nearby that served incredible fare. Called DeLuna's Bar & Grill, it is as casual as a spot can be, with amazing Cuban food. It's a must visit. (And they deliver!)

We also did plenty in Key West proper. Sunset is a must, and the town celebrates daily with jugglers, musicians and, one night, a cat herder (I kid you not). We found great spots for cocktails and dinners, and, of course, Key lime pie. And a visit to Key West, as chill as ours might have been, would never be complete without taking in a drag show at the 801 Bourbon Bar.

Our last day, we grabbed breakfast at DeLuna's and then walked those docks once again, chilled out, happy and not at all ready to head back to the cold.

Learn more about the Perry Hotel at perry keywest.com.

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 ?? HERALD PHOTO, ABOVE, BY MOIRA MCCARTHY ?? SCENIC LOCALE: The pool is serene at the Perry Hotel, top, in sunny Key West, Fla., above.
HERALD PHOTO, ABOVE, BY MOIRA MCCARTHY SCENIC LOCALE: The pool is serene at the Perry Hotel, top, in sunny Key West, Fla., above.
 ?? HEraLd PhOTOs By MOIra MCCarThy ?? NATURAL AMBIENCE: Enjoy a sunset cruise on the When and If tall ship, above, or encounter a rooster, a common site in Key West, Fla.
HEraLd PhOTOs By MOIra MCCarThy NATURAL AMBIENCE: Enjoy a sunset cruise on the When and If tall ship, above, or encounter a rooster, a common site in Key West, Fla.
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 ??  ?? TROPICAL GETAWAY: The Perry Hotel in Key West, Fla., above, is centrally located to allow guests to enjoy the calm and cool spots of the islands.
TROPICAL GETAWAY: The Perry Hotel in Key West, Fla., above, is centrally located to allow guests to enjoy the calm and cool spots of the islands.

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