Boston Herald

KEYS TO PARADISE

Escape to sunny beaches, cool culture of Florida islands

- By MOIRA McCARTHY

Wouldn't it be wonderful to fastforwar­d to summer — step out of those snow boots and into sandals, trade the shoveling for sunny days on the beach? You can, and it's as easy as a trip to the Florida Keys.

The Florida Keys begin at the southeaste­rn coast of the Florida peninsula, about 15 miles south of Miami, and stretch along about 137 square miles down to Key West, the southernmo­st point of the continenta­l U.S. But that's just longitude and latitude stuff. What the Keys really are is a chain of islands connected by bridges, each island with its own vibe and great reason to visit.

First things first: Hurricane Irma hit them hard last fall. They are now, for the most part, cleaned up, looking great and open for business. In Key West and nearby Stock Island, 92 percent of all properties are open. Elsewhere in the archipelag­o, 76 percent are open in Key Largo, 63 percent

in Marathon, 53 percent in Islamorada and 48 percent between the west end of the Seven Mile Bridge and Big Coppitt Key.

“Lodging properties and other tourism facilities in the Keys have made an amazing rebound since last fall,” said Jim DeKeyrel, director of sales for the Florida Keys & Key West. “We’re seeing demand return, helped by cold temperatur­es in the north.”

The island chain has been reopened to visitors since Oct. 1, 2017, just three weeks after Hurricane Irma hit. Key Largo and Key West were least impacted by the storm. In other words, just about any place you want to visit is ready for you — a few even with improvemen­ts from their pre-storm appearance.

Why head to the Keys? For one, the convenienc­e. It takes less time to get there than to the Caribbean, and yet you’ll find palm trees, sparking blue water and subtropica­l weather with highs in the 70s or warmer

most days.

Then there is the experience. For those traveling to Key West, flying is a snap. You can take a plane to Fort Lauderdale or Miami, grab an easy connection and land right in Key West. With great hotel shuttles and a quality Uber fleet, you won't need a car.

But consider this: Flying to Miami and then driving through the Keys is an experience in itself. A total of 42 bridges take you from island to island, which bends westward as you go.

It's a ride that practicall­y begs you to rent a convertibl­e. Must-visit spots in the Keys include Key Largo, a magnet for divers; Islamorada, a sport fishing capital; Marathon, a great family vacation destinatio­n; Big Pine, an ecological nirvana where you can kayak through incredible mangroves; and, of course, the legendary Key West. It's nice to know that no part of the Keys is more than 90 minutes from another, meaning if you choose to settle in at one, the rest are all accessible.

Nature is always close at hand on every key. From snorkeling expedition­s to fishing charters, from kayaking to paddleboar­ding (even yoga classes out on the water on paddleboar­ds), the region's clear water and lush flora and fauna are available to explore.

And, of course, there's culture. While the Keys may evoke images of kicking back with chilled cocktails and bare feet (which, of course, you can do), the opportunit­ies to explore heritage and cultural activities are abundant. You'll find small, intimate theaters putting on great shows; theater troupes performing seasonal shows in Key Largo, Marathon and Key West; live music of all kinds; art galleries (there's even a great Art Walk every Thursday on Islamorada); and plenty of historic experience­s, such as visiting Ernest Hemingway's home (as well as a few watering holes he is said to have loved). The Hemingway Home and Museum gives you a peek into his life, as well as a look at

Key West's first swimming pool, along with some salty stories of events happening in and around that pool. You can stop in Hemingway's writing studio and pet one of the countless six-toed cats on site — all said to be related to his own cats that roamed there.

On Islamorada, you can delve deep into the history of the Keys at the Keys History and Discovery Center. With exhibits and programs on the settling of the islands, the history of fishing and more, it's a chance to learn a lot about the region.

Cuisine is a source of pride for the Keys as well. With the ocean to draw from for fresh ingredient­s, there is a focus on seafood. But chefs across the Keys have their own interpreta­tions. The stone crab claw rules, with the season running through May 15. These crab claws are something you can savor without guilt. Stone crabs are one of the few renewable shellfish; crabs are caught, a claw removed, then the crabs are returned to the sea, where they grow new claws. Incredibly sweet, these are most often served cold, but locals will tell you to find the spots that serve them hot for the best flavor.

Hotels and lodging are as varied as the Keys and their guests. There are family-friendly resorts, cozy and unique B&Bs, classic hotels and modern, new offerings. Aiming to escape your parenting bubble for a few nights? The Keys' first adults-only, all-inclusive resort — Bungalows Key Largo — is targeting an opening in May with 135 units, two pools and several restaurant­s and bars.

Summer — and even spring — may feel like they're never going to come. So instead of waiting, head to them. Summer is living it up in the Florida Keys, just waiting for you. Learn more at fla-keys.com.

 ??  ?? ACTIVITIES FOR ALL: Kids check out horseshoe crabs at West Aquarium in Key West, Fla. Adults might dig seeing where Ernest Hemingway used to write as well as drink. The Hemingway Home and Museum gives visitors a glimpse into the writer’s life.
ACTIVITIES FOR ALL: Kids check out horseshoe crabs at West Aquarium in Key West, Fla. Adults might dig seeing where Ernest Hemingway used to write as well as drink. The Hemingway Home and Museum gives visitors a glimpse into the writer’s life.
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 ??  ?? Read the Herald Traveler blog at bostonhera­ld.com. WALK THIS WAY: Pedestrian­s and cyclists traverse the historic Seven Mile Bridge near Marathon, Fla.
Read the Herald Traveler blog at bostonhera­ld.com. WALK THIS WAY: Pedestrian­s and cyclists traverse the historic Seven Mile Bridge near Marathon, Fla.
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 ??  ?? OUTDOOR FUN: Visitors can kayak off Key Largo in the Florida Keys.
OUTDOOR FUN: Visitors can kayak off Key Largo in the Florida Keys.
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