Feel the rush of excitement at Mad River Valley
Majestic adventures, views on tap
A river runs through it — and a pretty fantastic one at that. We’re talking about Mad River Valley, the place to dive deep into a Vermont fall foliage experience and come up surrounded by the wonders of nature and country life.
The Mad River Valley boasts a thick forest tucked against majestic peaks, including the spires of Sugarbush Mountain and classic Mad River Glen. Rushing down the middle is the sparkling stream that is the Mad River itself.
The valley is “away from it all” even by Vermont standards. Rather than mega hotels and resorts, its roads are dotted with inns, the kind where you sip your breakfast coffee or local brew at sunset on an old-fashioned porch. Restaurants abound, and artisans and craftsmen are ready to talk about their trade. Creative folks are drawn to the spot.
But the icing on the cake? The river, the mountains and, especially in the fall, the myriad ways to get out and enjoy all of it.
It’s a special feeling, seeing the foliage by water, and in the Mad River Valley, the opportunities are ample. Whether you are new to paddle sports or an experienced water lover who doesn’t want to lug your gear along, stop in at Clearwater Sports in Waitsfield (4147 Main St.). Owner Barry Bender has been paddling the local waters and helping guests savor the experience since 1975. He will set you up with all you need and lead you to the perfect spot.
Locals know to head to Blueberry Lake for more paddling fun or just to hike around and enjoy the beauty. They also know to pack a bathing suit just in case: The lake is a perfect “swimming hole” on those warm fall days that pop up. Talk about a perfect day, dipping into cool, deep blue lake water while surrounded by golden Vermont hues. Yes, please.
But the water is only one way to peep at the leaves while having fun. The Mad River Valley is the perfect spot, as well, for hiking and biking, both on and off road. Sugarbush Resort (1840 Sugarbush Access Road, Warren; sugarbush.com) and Mad River Glen (57 Schuss Pass, Waitsfield; madriverglen. com) give folks a natural, easy way to find great hiking paths, as well as mountain biking choices. The valley’s extensive network of trails is in the process of being mapped out (look for new trail head kiosks next season). For now, visit the Mad River Valley Visitor Information Center (4403 Main St., on the corner of Bridge Street, in Waitsfield), and you’ll find not only a great variety of maps, but also friendly MRV “hosts” to answer questions.
And if you’re not the hiking/biking/paddling sort, a leisurely outing works in the Mad River Valley, too. You can put up a blanket riverside or lakeside (or mountainside) and picnic surrounded by the gorgeous canopy, or take a lift up to the top of Mount Ellen at Sugarbush and gaze out over hundreds of miles of forested beauty, to name just two options.
And for goodness’ sake, eat! The valley is a magnet for great chefs, and new din-
ing (and sipping) experiences are always opening. This fall, Lawson’s Finest Liquids will open a new brewery and beer hall in Waitsfield. Besides serving up worldrenowned beer (and Massachusetts residents can now find its amazing Sip of Sunshine at package stores to get a preview), Lawson’s will offer great food, a familyfriendly setting and — how cool is this? — vintage arcade games.
No visit to Mad River Valley is complete without time spent at the Mad River Taste Place, the year-old flavor central for perhaps all of Vermont. The Taste Place is a retail shop and cafe where you can learn about, sample, savor and even take home just about anything Vermontmade. The Vermont Cheese Council calls the Taste Place home, which means just about any cheese made in Vermont is there for your tasting pleasure (and purchasing). No need to wonder about details; the Taste Place has a very knowledgeable cheesemonger on staff. It’s also the official tasting place for The Vermont Cider Association. The Taste Place hosts regular educational events as well. Learn more at mad rivertaste.com.
Mad River Distillers is at the Taste Place as well as in other regional spots. They’ve been distilling awardwinning whiskey, rum and apple brandy from regional ingredients in Vermont’s Mad River Valley since 2013. The distillery is located in Warren, and mashes, ferments, distills and bottles all of its spirits from scratch. Cofounders Maura Connolly, John Egan and Brett Little hail from Boston and the started the distillery to craft a European-style apple brandy from Vermont apples.
Taste the spirits at the Mad River Taste Place in Waitsfield or at the flagship shop in Burlington, where you can enjoy cocktails Thursday through Sunday and tastings and cocktail flights seven days a week. Distillery tours in Warren are available by appointment on the website, madriverdistillers.com.
Mad River Valley has mad skills when it comes to the wealth of barns and bridges tucked into the beautiful setting. The valley celebrates on Sept. 14-16 its first-ever Vermont Barns & Bridges Festival. The community event will have lots of art events and more. Learn more at vt barnsandbridgesfestival.com.
Stocking up on provisions in Mad River Valley is a special experience in itself. Stopping at Mehuron’s Market (5121 Main St. #6, Waitsfield) lets you replenish supplies, but also gives you a true taste of Vermont life. When new Vermont-made products hit the market, this is often the first market to stock them. Mehuron’s has a bevy of hot, fresh foods for a quick meal, a huge deli and more Vermontsourced products than you knew could exist. The market’s been in the same family since it opened in 1941, and they want to meet and help you. Name a product — Vermont-made soap? A special beer you love? Locally made ice cream or coffee? They’ll get it to you. Learn more at mehurons.com.
As to where to lay your head at night, Mad River Valley’s lodging is, for the most part, quaint perfection.
For the resort lover, there is the great choice of lodging at the base of Sugarbush, where the Clay Brook Hotel & Residences (22 Gate House Lane, Warren) gives you all that a “big hotel” might offer in amenities while still offering that simple, lovely Mad River Valley feel with fireplaces, hewed wood design and a farmhouse ambience. A top choice for visitors from the Bay State is the White Horse Inn (999 German Flats Road, Waitsfield), located at the entrance to the Mount Ellen peak at Sugarbush. The inn is surrounded by national forest, and bears visit the property almost every night. The first trout turned up at the inn’s private pond last year, which is surrounded by six acres of woods and gardens.
The White Horse Inn’s 26 guest rooms make it the third-largest hotel in the Mad River Valley (only the two Sugarbush inns have more rooms). Each room is individually decorated. When chef Allen Zeiner and Bob Heffernan bought the inn five years ago, they focused on the food. Allen’s culinary training at Johnson & Wales, and his 15plus years as a pastry chef for numerous bakeries, inspires guest raves for his from-scratch cookies, baked goods and entrees on the full-breakfast buffet. Learn more at whitehorseinnvermont.com.
Mad River Valley is centered on the river. But the flow of beauty, peace and fun makes it a perfect foliage escape. Learn more at madrivervalley.com.