STOP FOR SANDWICH
Nearby Cape town a perfect spot to relax, explore and enjoy
Anote to native New Englanders: It's here, the great time of year we don't tell the tourists about — early fall on the Cape. The sky glows a bit more vividly now that the sun's no longer directly overhead. And since the ocean reflects the sky, you may find yourself checking the settings on your camera to be sure you didn't amp up the blue meter (you didn't — it's really that pretty out there).
Just as great: The streets are a bit quieter, free parking is easier to access and everything just feels chill. I love visiting Cape Cod towns this time of year. Great news, too: One of the loveliest is as close as the first exit after the Sagamore Bridge.
Sandwich, oft driven through on the way to a more distant Cape Cod town, is a destination in itself. For a day trip or more, Sandwich offers the perfect confluence of history and scenery, activity and relaxation. And some pretty amazing tea, too.
I headed to Sandwich for the day recently just as the sky was clearing after the remnants of Florence had soaked us well. The clouds were parting thanks to a fresh breeze, and as I turned off the highway toward Sandwich, I cranked open my window. Ah, fall.
My first stop was a quick visit to Cafe Chew (4 Merchants Road, Sandwich; cafechew.com), usually one of my favorite bike-training reward spots. I grab an iced latte and “dirt bomb,” its signature muffin, and head directly across the road to the Cape Cod Canal for some walking and people watching.
On any given morning, you can see fishermen pulling in huge stripers, cyclists honing their sport and, of course, boats passing by. One morning I got a view of a tall ship. As it majestically sailed past me, the crew waved and smiled. Amazing. I save some of my latte for my next planned destination, less than two miles away.
“This is totally rideable on a bike,” I think as I wind through quiet streets, taking in beautiful homes en route to the Sandwich Boardwalk. The boardwalk was originally constructed in 1875 by famed local Gustavus Howland, and it's just over 1,350 feet to a beautiful beach with sweeping views.
But even on the land side, it's breathtaking. Marshland dotted with vibrant rugosa roses and other seafront vegetation give splashes of color in the marsh area and along the boardwalk. An inlet meanders through, and most days you can find paddle boarders and sea kayakers there (yes, even
in the fall, it’s a great spot for paddle sports). From the beach, you get views of Provincetown and Wellfleet in one direction, Sagamore and the White Cliffs in the other. I spend way more time than I planned there.
Sandwich has more to offer. I head back to the center of town (about a mile away and, again, easily done by bike) and park in a free spot to take in some sites.
First up is Dexter Grist Mill (2 Water St.), a true 17th century mill that is still operating. Smack in the center of town, it looks like a Norman Rockwell painting. Inside you can learn about its history and even buy some authentic ground cornmeal (I did). Since it’s a beautiful day and parking is free, I make the short (less than a quarter mile) walk to tour Hoxie House (18 Water St.), a 17th century saltbox that was home to the Rev. John Smith, his wife, Susanna, and their 13(!) children. It is one of the oldest still-standing homes on all of the Cape.
By now I’m hungry again. Back across from the mill is Dunbar House Restaurant & Tea Room (1 Water St.; dunbarrestaurant.com). This bright crisp day I choose to sit outside. I order tea (of course), scones and cream, and a bit of pate presented with a fresh salad and warm, crispy bread. It is, quite simply, perfection.
After my leisurely tea, I head around the corner to the other part of “downtown,” and poke through shops. The Brown Jug (155 Main St.), where I purchase some lovely cheese to bring home, along with the Heart of Stone gift shop (130 MA-6A) are favorites. There are also upscale dress shops, cool antique spots and amazing places to eat, should you stay longer. You can get classic New England cuisine at the Dan’l Webster Inn (149 Main St.), a great burger at the Next Door Burger Bar (8 Jarves St.) and locally sourced fare at the Belfry Inn & Bistro (6 Jarves St.), to name a few.
There’s much more to do in Sandwich — it stretches out along 44 square miles. But on this trip, I’ve loved every minute of all my discoveries within about four square miles of that. Don’t tell the tourists, but Sandwich is at its peak right now.